The Inside Story from Italian Wine Merchants

Expert Picks: Domaine Ponsot and…Domaine Ponsot!

Posted on | September 14, 2015 | Written by Crystal Edgar | No Comments

Crystal 2014One of my favorite areas of Burgundy, Morey-St-Denis always hits the spot without completely breaking the bank. I believe that Morey-St-Denis suffers a bit of an identity crisis and thus loses out on the full respect and appreciation it deserves. Wedged between the famous Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and adored Chambolle Musigny to the south, Morey-St-Denis is a quarter the size of Gevrey and also the smallest viticulture village of the Côtes de Nuits, but it houses five grand cru vineyards and is rich with premier cru sites—not too shabby!

Today I reach for a few exquisite wines from the masterful Domaine Ponsot. This estate has been a leader in the region and a catalyst for innovation since the late 1800s. Today, under the watchful eye of Laurent Ponsot, the estate produces wines from 50+ year-old vines with miniscule yields and no new oak whatsoever. When asked about his philosophy Ponsot says, “We are lazy, we don’t interfere with nature. My aim is to express the vintage and the terroir through my wines, not to express myself. Some people say we are inconsistent. To me this is the greatest possible compliment.”

Ponsot’s wines are some of the most compelling and age-worthy in the region, even in vintages where nature has been less than kind. In great years I would say two decades is a minimum for his top wines and even his village and lieux-dits pack impressive power. Here are a few highlights from 2012 that I am quite excited about:

Domaine Ponsot 2012 Morey-St-Denis Cuvée des Grives $101.99

Offering an exquisitely balanced floral nose with dark berry fruit, earth and game on the palate, this lovely village offering shows impressive depth and complexity. Enjoyable now with room to age should you have the patience, this wine is perfect with roasted duck breast

Domaine Ponsot 2012 Morey-St-Denis 1er Cuvée Alouettes $246.00

This elegant premier cru offers impressive fruit character and structure with impeccable balance. This site offers layers of minerality in between laces of fruit and earth with a finish seems to go on forever. It’s one of the best values for quality of such caliber from Ponsot and a must-have for real Burgundy connoisseurs.

 

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