The Inside Story from Italian Wine Merchants

Expert Picks: Château de la Maltroye and…Château de la Maltroye!

Posted on | September 29, 2015 | Written by Michael Adler | No Comments

Michael Adler 5.29.15I’m a hopeless nerd when it comes to my wines. One of my favorite tasting experiments is to select two Burgundies from the same producer and village that offer two distinct terroirs, and compare them side by side to see if I can pick out the subtle differences in aroma and texture. It can be a fascinating experience, and I urge you to try it. Another fun experiment, and quite the opposite of the first, is to select both a red and a white from the same appellation and see if I can discern the similarities. There are only a very few Burgundy appellations that produce both red and white wines, and Chassagne-Montrachet is my favorite of these special zones.

Château de la Maltroye is a leading producer based in Chassagne-Montrachet, and I love this estate’s wines for their impeccable balance of power and elegance. The estate covers 37 acres across ten premier cru sites, predominantly in Chassagne-Montrachet with some small holdings in Santenay. Today I selected two of Maltroye’s wines, the 2010 Chassange-Montrachet 1er cru Clos du Chateau Rouge and the 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Dent de Chien. These two bottles are incredible on their own, but to enjoy them both with the same meal makes for a fascinating study of both winemaking and terroir.

Maltroye 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Château Rouge $59.99

Now entering an excellent drinking window, the 2010 Maltroye Clos du Chateau Rouge is a textbook study in classic Burgundian Pinot Noir. Rich, sappy Pinot Noir fruit is underlain by subtle notes of minerals and underbrush, all conveyed on a nearly weightless body. Incredibly pretty in the glass and an absolute pleasure to drink, this wine will continue to deliver the goods for another 5-7 years.

Maltroye 2012 Chassagne 1er Cru Dent de Chien $179.99

One of the estate’s two signature whites, the 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Dent de Chien, meaning “dog’s tooth,” is a very mineral-driven wine. Round and lush in texture, this Chardonnay is packed full of bright, mouth-watering acidity and flavors of slightly baked apple and pear. The Dent de Chien sees some time in oak; however, it is not ‘toasty’ oak—it adds structure, depth and complexity, but it doesn’t dominate the flavor profile. Structured and weighty, this ‘12 is fit for mid to long-term cellaring and will offer an outstanding drinking experience through 2030.

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