The Inside Story from Italian Wine Merchants

Expert Picks: Alain Burguet and…Alain Burguet

Posted on | November 18, 2015 | Written by Michael Adler | No Comments

Michael Adler 5.29.15I have a soft spot for Burgundy’s smaller, family-run domaines. I find that their wines speak more to the passion, personality and livelihood of their makers than wines produced by larger, more corporate estates. Winemakers like Dominique Gallois, Christian Moreau and Alain Burguet are prime examples, and I’m always proud to promote and champion the wines from estates like these—of course, it’s easy when the wines are this good.

Domaine Alain Burguet, now run primarily by Alain’s two sons Jean-Luc and Eric, occupies about twenty acres, primarily in Gevrey-Chambertin. Historically, the estate made just two wines, a Gevrey-Chambertin and Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, but in the last decade or so, the domaine has expanded its line to include two additional Gevrey bottlings, as well as smaller amounts of Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and Chambertin Clos de Beze with fruit purchased from Domaine Damoy.

The two wines I’m featuring today are Burguet’s 2013 Bourgogne Rouge Les Pince Vin and 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux, both highly sought-after cru wines that make regular appearances on NYC’s top restaurant wine lists.

Domaine Alain Burguet 2013 Bourgogne Rouge Les Pince Vins $45.99

Burguet’s Pince Vins, though bottled and labeled as a Bourgogne Rouge, is essentially a Gevrey-Chambertin in everything but its name. Straddling a section of Gevrey vineyard, Pince Vins is a plot on the north end of Gevrey-Chambertin that’s much in the shape of a pincer, hence its name. While most vignerons who make a Bourgogne Rouge in addition to their village-designated wines use purchased fruit from other appellations, Burguet only bottles fruit from its own estate vineyards to craft a Bourgogne Rouge of near-unparalleled depth and complexity. Light to medium in body yet firm and structured on the palate, the ‘13 Les Pince Vins offers ripe aromas of red and black fruits, leading into a palate packed with savory and earthy notes, and just a touch of sauvage. This is an unbeatable value in under $50 Burgundy!

Domaine Alain Burguet 2010 Gevrey 1er Cru Les Champeaux $135.99

Vintage after vintage Burguet’s Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux is the estate’s most sought-after cru, and in an exceptional vintage like 2010, it has the necessary structure and acidity to age for two or more decades, though it is also quite expressive now five years after harvest. Dense and dark in the glass, it wafts with alluring aromas of red and black fruits, roses, wet earth and dried herbs, and it culminates in an incredibly long, powerful finish. Elegant and finessed yet full of power and energy, this ’10 Les Champeaux is a wine of beautiful dichotomies that evolves constantly in the glass from the moment it’s poured to the last hedonistic sip. Fans of well-wrought Gevrey-Chambertin should not miss out on this gorgeous ‘10 Champeaux.

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