The IWM Winemaker Series featuring Sassicaia 1988, Salon 1988, Barolo 1988

Aspen Food and Wine Classic now in its impressive 29th year…

It’s that time of year when the white tents go up, corks are popped, and thousands descend on nation’s line-up of wine and food festivals throughout the country. While some set the stage for a chugging contest with miles of smiling teeth the color of Grimace (few can match the denture staining platform of the ZAP Festival – Zinfandel Advocates and Producers), a selected few manage to balance the pleasures of the vine with a greater sense of calm. Tanglewood Wine and Food Classic in the Berkshires would top that list, and it may be the best kept secret for New York enthusiasts (CT and MA residents as well). The Nantucket Wine Festival is perfectly executed each May. And then there’s the U.S. Open for oenophiles, the Aspen Food and Wine Classic now in its impressive 29^th year.

This June 17^th thousands of American gourmands will take over the former silver mining town of Aspen and turn it into the nation’s premier food and wine event. There is a good chance you will see José Andrés walking through a late night party with an Iberico Jamon over his shoulder or Alvaro Palacios playing some flamenco as the midnight hours approach, IWM will in the meantime be preparing lunch and dinner with some of our most cherished craftsman/woman of the vine at The Little Nell.

This year’s IWM Winemaker Series will include more than five luncheons and dinners (which I have listed below for those interested). Among the luncheon highlights is our lunch with Nicolas Joly of Coulée de la Serrant, who is a rare combination of Josko Graver meets Ales Kristancic (Movia), and a winemaker who takes the practice of biodynamics to extremes with his rich Savennieres. We also have Cinzia Merli (Le Macchiole) pouring her miniscule production and Petrus-like Messorio, not a bad choice for washing done lunch in between seminars.

For the evening events, attendees to the Champagne Salon will receive a rare first taste (on American soil that is), of the 1999 before diving into the vintage gems of 1988 and 1983. Then there is the rare Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia and Bodega Chacra dinner with Piero Incisa della Rocchetta featuring the 1988; yes, it is the wine that Maya references in “Sideways,” but unlike many depictions it is done with accuracy. While many critics and collectors are absorbed with the iconic and super-ripe 1985 Sassicaia, this wine is about finesse and elegance, the 1988 is in fact the house favorite of Tenuta San Guido (and on that note, many a Sassicaia whose vintage ends in the number 8 – 1958, 1968, 1978, 1988, 1998, and now 2008). In addition, Piero will be pouring his 2010 Cincuenta y Cinco; guests will be the first in the country to taste this pure, pre-phylloxera Pinot Noir delivered at just 11.4% alcohol. Like the 1988 Sassicaia, this wine is about finesse and stands as a statement against over-extraction and high alcohol Pinot.

The IWM Winemaker Series at The Little Nell

Lunch with the Winemaker: The Vintage Barolos of Borgogno
Featuring Andrea Farinetti and the Barolos of Borgogno

When: Thursday, June 16^th
Time: 1:00-2:30 pm
Where: IWM Cellars at The Little Nell
Guests: Limited
Special Guest(s): Andrea Farinetti of Borgogno
Wines: Borgogno Barolo Riserva and the Champagnes of Alfred Gratien

Vintage Champagne Salon and Delamotte Dinner
featuring fine Champagnes from the Historic Houses of Salon and Delamotte

When: Thursday, June 16^th
Reception: 6:30-7:15 pm (Champagne and Oysters) at IWM Cellars
Dinner: 7:30-9:30 pm (Four Courses) at Montagna Restaurant
Where: IWM Cellars (Reception), Montagna Restaurant Wine Room (Dinner)
Wines: Vintage Champagne Salon (1983 – 1999) and Champagne Delamotte

Lunch with the Winemaker: The Biodynamics Wines of Nicolas Joly (Coulée de la Serrant)
featuring Nicolas Joly and the Savennières of Coulee de la Serrant

When: Friday, June 17^th
Time: 1:00-2:30 pm
Where: IWM Cellars at The Little Nell
Special Guest(s): Nicolas Joly (Coulée de la Serrant)
Wines: Joly Coulee de Serrant, Savennieres Les Clos Sacres, and more

Winemaker Dinner: Vintage Sassicaia and Bodega Chacra Dinner
featuring Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, the wines of Tenuta San Guido and Bodega Chacra

When: Friday, June 17^th
Reception: 6:30-7:15 pm (Antipasti) at IWM Cellars
Dinner: 7:30-9:30 pm (Three Courses) at Montagna Restaurant
Where: IWM Cellars (Reception), Montagna Restaurant Wine Room (Dinner)
Wines: Sassicaia (1988, 1999, 2006, 2007), Bodega Chacra (2007, 2009, 2010)

Lunch with the Winemaker: Super Tuscan Legend, Le Macchiole
Featuring Cinzia Merli and Paleo Rosso, Messorio, and more

When: Saturday, June 18th
Time: 1:00-2:30 pm
Where: IWM Cellars at The Little Nell
Special Guest(s): Cinzia Merli (Le Macchiole)
Wines: Le Macchiole Portfolio (Messorio, Scrio, Paleo Rosso, Paleo Bianco)

Soft Shell Crab, Crispy Sweetbreads and Lobster Crema with Champagne Salon 1999 Blanc de Blancs?

A sophisticated twist on the classics

A traditional British lunch of battered haddock and chips is not my first impulse to pair with the ever-elegant Champagne Salon. A few weeks ago in London’s Notting Hill the icon of sophisticated bubbles did just that for the launch of the highly anticipated 1999 vintage of Salon Champagne.

The fish and chips pairing in hindsight, makes perfect sense. While a young, vibrant sparkler does amazing things with anything fried, if you add a little age to the bubbly, its mature earthy notes are a prime candidate for a concoction of popcorn with truffle oil and salt. Simplicity is at its best here, and these two pairings are among the great food and wine pairings of the world we sometimes overlook. However, Champagne can work with caviar, oysters, lobsters, foie gras, sushi, smoked fish, Chinese food, and turkey, which begs the question, is Champagne the most versatile wine on the planet? We will certainly test the statement as we do an American take on fish and chips — Soft Shell Crab, Crispy Sweetbread and Lobster Crema, all paired with Champagne Salon 1999 Blanc de Blancs.

IWM couldn’t be more pleased to announce our June winemaker series with Champagne Salon and Delamotte that will be held in both New York and Aspen. Building on the versatility of these estates’ great Champagnes, Chef Kevin and I plan to put a twist on some classic pairings to celebrate a first taste of the 1999 Champagne Salon, along with some aged gems that date back to 1983. Hope you can join us or explore your own pairing from the menu below with these great houses of Champagne. Cheers!

Vintage Champagne Salon and Delamotte Dinner
Featuring fine Champagnes from the Historic Houses of Salon and Delamotte

When: Wednesday, June 15^th
Reception: 6:30-7:15 pm (Oysters and Seafood)
Dinner: 7:30-9:30 pm (Four Courses)
Where: Italian Wine Merchants
Price: Inquire

Menu and Wine List:

Reception: Seafood Bar and Beyond: Oysters, Crudo, Iberico Jamon
Champagne Delamotte Non-Vintage Blanc de Blancs (from Magnum)

Course 1: Soft Shell Crab, Crispy Sweetbread and Lobster Crema
Champagne Salon 1999 Blanc de Blancs

Course 2: Bucatini with Sardinian Bottarga, Ciabatta and Italian Caviar
Champagne Salon 1997 Blanc de Blancs

Course 3: Roasted Veal, Chicken Liver, Pancetta, and Morels
Champagne Salon 1988 Blanc de Blancs

Dessert Course: Bread Pudding
Champagne Salon 1983 Blanc de Blancs

Overview:

Called the ultimate cult Champagne and the diamant jonquille of sparkling wines, Champagne Salon is for IWM simply where sophistication in Champagne begins. This is the original Blanc de Blancs created from a single grape variety, Chardonnay, from a single source, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. In just over one century, these exclusive bubbles have only been created in only 41 vintages. IWM sees it as only fitting to launch our Vintage Winemaker Series in both New York and Aspen with the rare and iconic Champagne Salon, along with their sister house Champagne Delamotte, the fifth-oldest in the region.

Jean-Baptiste Cristini of Champagne Salon-Champagne Delamotte and IWM will lead this five-course dinner and tasting where guests will be among the first in the country to experience the highly anticipated release from the 1999 vintage, alongside vintage gems that date back to 1983. The menu, prepared by IWM’s own Chef Kevin Sippel, will feature small plate cuisine from around the world to accent the versatility, ageability and depth of Champagne Salon. Eat, drink, converse and enjoy the ineffable sophistication and indisputable beauty of Champagne Salon and Champagne Delamotte with IWM.

For more information and reservations, please contact Chris Deas at 212.473.2323 x101 or via email cdeas@italianwinemerchant.com. Reservations are on first-come, first-served basis. Due to the rarity of the wines and the limited seating, advance payment is required upon confirmation. Payments are non-refundable.

A Special Evening in Toscana with Castello di Casole at IWM

An evening of wine, conversation and culture

We all have a sweet spot for Toscana; it really is the epicenter of art, food, wine, and history with a landscape matched by few spots on this earth. While there is a lot to absorb all at once, I’ve always seen it as a place of tranquility, and there are few spots where drinking a glass of wine overlooking the rolling hills and rustic villas can go so far. It’s a place I want to share with my wife and family, which I plan on doing in 2012 for the opening of Hotel Castello di Casole.

While we wait for the upcoming year to arrive, we did the next best thing and brought A Special Evening in Toscana to Italian Wine Merchants with our longtime partner Timbers Resorts. It was a night to celebrate Castello di Casole, their historic and magical 4,200-acre property located just outside of Siena, and the upcoming launch of their 5-star hotel. Few boutique resort and private residence club have invested so much in restoring and preserving Tuscany’s past; it really is quite commendable. To complement these efforts, we shared the range of the region’s great wines, which provided for a memorable taste of Tuscany worth describing.

Traditional Barolo at IWM

Notes from our Winemaker Event with Marta (Giuseppe) Rinaldi

After doing several winemaker dinners outside Italy, with the likes of Chateau Musar (Lebanon) and Domaine Jadot (Burgundy), it was nice to return to our roots, with wines based on the noble Nebbiolo. It is in fact, the traditional Barolos of Piemonte that is the foundation of IWM; names like Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, and the more obscure Giuseppe Rinaldi were the first wines to line the shelves of IWM more than a decade ago. While this is more the norm today, it was not the case back then. It was truly a breath of fresh air to revisit tradition with Marta Rinaldi join us in the Studio del Gusto on March 26th.

To begin the event, we needed a white and we intentionally poured the Gravner Ribolla 2000 – this is the last vintage of Josko Gravner’s open vat experimentation. The casks used to make this wine were in fact sold to Giuseppe Rinaldi. Each winemaker shares a mutual admiration for the other, and the Gravner was in perfect form to introduce the firm Barolos of Rinaldi, drawing an unexpected smile of appreciation from our guest winemaker, along with the kind words, “my father would approve greatly.” Unfortunately, not much of this 2000 Gravner is left, and for the attending guests was a rare treat for the collector looking to experience pre-anofora Gravner (the open vat period for Gravner only lasted four years).

A Marathon Rhone Valley Wine Tasting and Beyond

Surprise and controversy in the outliers

This blog post was co-authored by Chris Deas and Rob Allen

On the evening of March 25th, a group of ten wine enthusiasts gathered at IWM for a blind tasting of wines from France’s Rhone Valley, the 125-mile stretch between the ancient Roman city of Vienne (just south of Lyon) and Avignon. We enjoyed a collection of 21 wines from both our guests and the IWM cellar that not only covered the Rhone, but ventured out to the neighboring regions of Languedoc and Roussillon, and we also sampled some outliers from the Loire Valley, Rioja, McLaren Vale and Toscana. Ironically, it was these outliers—specifically the 2006 Grange des Peres, a 1990 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Blanco Riserva, and a 1998 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz—that were the surprise wines of the night, but they weren’t without controversy. However, when a lineup includes four selections from Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier’s Hermitage “Le Meal,” and multiple vintages of Chateauneuf from Chateau Beaucastel, the surprises are not necessarily the highlights. This was an event where every bottle in the line-up performed, and the food prepared by Chef Kevin Sippel showed each flight to its best, course after course.

The following is the wine and food list by flight, followed by a consensus of how each wine performed. For the event preparations, we opened the red wines at 1pm and briefly tasted through the line-up. They remained aerating (using the slow-o method, where the cork is removed, as well as a small portion of the wine, to provide slow oxygenation into the bottle). Each bottle was double decanted at 4:00pm with a two-ounce pour prepared thirty minutes before each flight. The dinner began at 7:00pm and finished at 10:45pm.

It should also be mentioned that in a decade of tastings at IWM, this was one of the most knowledgeable groups we had the privilege of sharing wine and conversation with; it was an education for both sides of the event. We would like to thank Rick and Ellen, Tom and Binny, Jonathan and Stacey, and Rick and Lee Ann for their insight, wines and conversation.

Wine List of the Evening

Reception
1. JL Chave St Joseph Blanc Celeste 2007

(St. Joseph – Marsanne)

Antipasti – Flight One

2. 1996 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

(Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Roussanne, Grenache Blanc)
3. 2001 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape “La Crau” Blanc

(Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Clairette, Grenache, Roussanne)
4. 2005 Betts & Scholl Hermitage Blanc

(Hermitage – Roussanne, Marsanne)
5. 1990 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Blanco Reserva

(Rioja – Viura, Malvasia, Garnacho Blanco)

Fish – Flight Two
Roasted Black Cod with Mussels in a Tomato and Bean Guazzetto

6. 2001 Chateau Grillet Vin Blanc

(Condrieu (Grillet) – Viognier)
7. 2007 Matassa Matassa Blanc

(Roussillon – Grenache Gris, Maccabeu)
8. 2005 Chateau Grillet Vin Blanc

(Condrieu (Grillet) – Viognier)

9. 2001 Chave Hermitage Blanc

(Hermitage – Marsanne, Roussanne)

Pasta – Flight Three
Pacherri Verdi with Frog Legs and Creamy Garlic
10. 1998 Domaine De La Janasse, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

(Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre)
11. 1998 Château de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge

(Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, Counoise)
12. 1999 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge

(Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, Counoise)
13. 2006 Domaine Grange des Peres Rouge

(Roussillon – Mourvedre, Syrah, Cabernet, Counoise)
14. 2004 Francois Villard St. Joseph Gran Reflet
(St. Joseph – Syrah)

Meat – Flight Four
Roasted Duck with Marsala, Foie Gras and Roasted Porcini Mushrooms
15. 2005 Betts & Scholl Hermitage
(Hermitage – Roussanne, Marsanne)
16. 1991 Chave Hermitage

(Hermitage – Syrah)

17. 1996 Chapoutier “Le Meal” Hermitage

(Hermitage – Syrah)
18. 1998 d’Arenberg “The Dead Arm” Shiraz

(McLaren Vale – Syrah)
19. 2006 Le Macchiole Scrio

(Toscana – Syrah)

Cheese – Flight Five
Selection of Italian Cheeses
20. 1990 Chave Vin de Paille

(Hermitage – Marsanne)
21. 1990 Huet L’Echansonne Vouvray Moelleux Haut Lieu 1er Trie

(Loire Valley – Chenin Blanc)

Flight One – Roussane Meets Viognier, and Viura?
There was definitely a split decision in this flight; the women favored the ripe and robust 2005 Betts & Scholl Hermitage Blanc, while the men preferred the 2001 Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau” Blanc with great citrus and chalky minerality. It should be noted that the Betts & Scholl includes grapes from the iconic Jean-Louis Chave, making this 400 case production an extra special find here. However, the surprise in this flight would certainly go to the 1990 Lopez de Heredia Blanco—just one guest pegged this for Rioja, while everyone else was thinking Southern France. The wine showcased dried fruit with a citrus streak of acidity, complemented by a long, nutty finish. To find a twenty-year-old white from the legendary Rioja traditionalist and a wine of this age and caliber for under $50 ($45 at IWM) is truly amazing.

Flight Two – Northern Whites with a Southern Twist
The clear winner, and perhaps the white wine of the evening, was the 2001 Chave Hermitage Blanc. All the components of the wine here are amplified—high alcohol, lush fruit, waxy texture, but somehow the wine comes together and works in perfect harmony, offering quite a spectrum of flavors: honey, tropical fruit, minerality, brioche and nuts all supported by a subtle streak of acidity you don’t expect to find here. While the Chave was the highlight, perhaps the most surprising and talked about wine of the flight was the Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes from Matassa, made from a unique combination of Grenache Gris and Maccabeu. This little white from the Roussillon presented a lively offering, with surprising acidity and minerality, from this region of France. Aromatically few whites matched this wine. This is an ideal accompaniment for antipasti and cured meats.

Flight Three – A Roussillon Red Challenges Chateauneuf du Pape:
The table was split across this flight. Two surprises here were the special release 2004 Villard St. Joseph Gran Reflet and the cult-like Grange des Peres from the 2006 vintage; both favorite selections provided by Rob. While the Villard offered the most immediate enjoyability, the Grange des Peres was the wine of structure for the evening, presenting a dense profile of dark fruit and roasted meats, enveloped with a firm tannic grip. While some enthusiasts will favor the 2007 release of this wine for its concentration, we believe this may be the best Grange des Peres to date; it’s a wine of longevity and will benefit from more cellaring and aeration. On the other end of the tasting spectrum were the bigger, more earthy-driven Chateauneufs of Beaucastel. And while the weighty, critically acclaimed Beaucastel 1998 drew immediate applauses from the group, Chris, Rick and Binny embraced the acidity from the leaner 1999 vintage; we all felt this was another great example of how an overshadowed vintage delivers.

Flight Four – Hermitage Syrah Meets Aussie Shiraz Meets Super Tuscan Syrah:
This round divided the group, with the 1996 Chapoutier Hermitage “le Meal” slightly edging out the iconic Chave Hermitage from 1991. Ironically, many confused the two for one another when tasting the wines blind. The Chave, however, showed more restraint and structure, while the Chapoutier provided softer elegance and approachability. While these were the highlights, it was the #4 wine in this flight that caused the most debate of the evening. When the d’Arenberg Shiraz was served blind, guests had this wine pegged as French and praised the wine for its complexity and tertiary flavors; when the wine was unveiled, the hardened Europhiles (Chris and Rob included) retreated back as they were astonished to learn that the wine they were enjoying was Australian Shiraz. This was atypical take from Down Under, a true delight to experience. On a side note, when we opened this wine at 1:00pm, it displayed super concentration, a great example of what proper aeration can do for this varietal.

Flight Five – A Rare and Different Take from Jean-Louis Chave:
The 1990 Chave Vin de Paille was a momentous wine, by far the rarest and one of the most interesting dessert wine we’ve experienced, ranking up there with Quintarelli’s 1990 Bianco Amabile. And similar to the method in which Quintarelli would make his Recioto della Valpolicella, Chave resurrected an old Hermitage technique to produce his Marsanne based Vin de Paille (“straw wine”) in miniscule quantities. This technique includes the drying of whole grape clusters on straw mats for more than two months. During this time the grapes lose much of their initial water weight, dramatically concentrating their sugar content. The raisinated grapes are then crushed and fully fermented into a heady and robust wine. For Chave, this uninterrupted fermentation period can take five years – unheard of in the industry. The result was nothing short of exotic: a collision of ripe apricot and peach, accented with honey and butterscotch for a finish that seemed to last for minutes. This was truly special experience and for select vintages, just two barrels of this wine is produced.

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