The Inside Story from Italian Wine Merchants

Last-Minute Wine Presents

Giving gifts that are easy for the impatient gift-giver

I am an awful, impatient shopper in general. Around the holidays, I am even worse shopper because my patience is close to zero. But I’ve found a shopping secret, at least one that works for those of legal age. Wine is the perfect gift: it is a storied and carefully made living thing of character, sacrifice and very hard work, and it’s designed to be enjoyed socially. Even before I was in the wine industry, I would always give friends and loved ones gifts of wine; it makes the life of a grumpy shopper so much easier.

Here are a few cool last minute options for the people who remain on your gift list. The wines of Bartolo Mascarello are always an excellent gift, specifically for the tough-to-buy-for wine lover. You might give an Italian wine novice the Bartolo Mascarello Barbera 2009, and save the Mascarello Bartolo Barolo 2007 for a more experienced wine-lover.

This choice is no brainer–an enrollment in one of our wine clubs is an incredibly thoughtful gift. It’s an excellent choice as a gift for people who might want to explore Italian wines leisurely in the comfort of their own homes.  We offer several levels to choose from, so you are well equipped to match the needs of your gift recipient.

The wines of Giuseppe Quintarelli offer something special for everyone.  As I have mentioned several times before, I have a passion for these wines since they are unique in their character and profiles.  From the Bianco Secco 2010 to the Recioto 1997, you’ll find something for every different palate.

Lastly, instead of a traditional gift of physical wine, an afternoon in our own Studio del Gusto is a downright awesome gift for anyone who wants to experience the glory of wine. Our Studio Regionale tastings give an in depth guided look at our wines, and the calendar is up for January and February events.  However you decide to spend this holiday season, do so in love, compassion, giving, and gratefulness. I know I will.

Ales Kristancic Decoded

The man, the madness and the message

A Slovenian Hurricane swept through Hong Kong last week as we welcomed back our friend Ales Kristancic, the iconic winemaker of Movia. Much has been said of Ales’ high energy visits to Hong Kong and New York, but very little about the stories behind the stories. After all, what the heck are “happy chickens who smoke Marlboros and wear sunshine glasses?” And why is Ales so excited about a 2011 harvest that lasted 2.5 months longer than previous years?

Sure, last week’s visit featured its share of ballroom dancing in elevators, walking up down escalators, and some very suggestive commentary, but I’ve learned to notice the “off-moments” when Ales pulls Sommeliers to the side for private tutorials and explains the methods to the madness.

So why does Ales frequently reference chickens smoking Marlboros? As it turns out, he’s referring to billboards in Yugoslavia that featured Marlboros as a taste of freedom. While the familiar color of red worked, the message caused a particular problem and thus Marlboros were banned. As you can imagine, smoking Marlboros in public then became the ultimate expression of freedom and being beyond the law.  Happy chickens who “know the rooster” and smoke Marlboros are the most free and happy chickens. They transmit positive energy to us, as a biodynamic vineyard and wine can do. Or so I’ve gleaned from spending a lot of time with Ales.

As we learned when Ales arrived, we were lucky to have him. The visit was in doubt when it seemed the 2011 harvest would never end. In order to harvest in the meticulous grape-by-grape nature that Ales demands, he headed to Serbia to recruit a band of literal gypsy blueberry pickers to help ensure proper selection and adequate coverage for the difficult 2011 vintage. Admitting to great concern during the summer, Ales now considers this one of Movia’s greatest ever vintages and offers full credit to his longtime Movia team and their last-minute teammates.

It has taken quite a bit of time with Ales, but I’ve become a better listener. It’s easy to get caught up in moments Crocodile Dundee moments, like when Ales introduced himself as the President of Turbojet to everyone waiting in line to board the Macau ferry, but in learning to listen to his subtext, I’ve gained an even greater appreciation for how some of my favorite wines have become what they are.

So Many Winemaker Events, So Much Good Wine

A brief recap of the fine producers IWM has hosted in the past two weeks

Franco Conterno addresses a rapt audience

As the fall approaches and the brisk air sweeps across New York City, there is nothing more comforting than a meal shared at the IWM table.  Over the past two weeks we have hosted two winemaker dinners and a winemaker lunch showcasing producers that have created some of the most precious and sought-after wines. We’ve featured Aldo Conterno, Gravner, Fiorano, Bodega Chacra, Tenuta San Guido and, a more recent addition to the IWM roster, Paolo Vodopivec.  All events paired food and wine, complemented by the company of great friends and fellow wine enthusiasts to create an atmosphere unlike no other.

The first dinner featured the wines of Aldo Conterno, accompanied by a five course regional meal prepared by our chef Kevin Sippel and hosted by Franco Conterno, the son of Aldo.  The evening highlighted the much awaited and sumptuous vintage of 2007 among assorted antipasti, butternut squash ravioli, and braised short rib with black truffles and chestnut.

The second dinner exhibited new releases by a vast array of producers, with a vintage gem of Fiorano.  In addition to tasting wines like Sassicaia 2008 and Gravner 2005 Breg Anfora, guests had the rare opportunity of being among the midst of Filippo Polidori, wine journalist/brand ambassador, and Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, producer of Bodega Chacra and Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia.

We also had Paolo Vodopivec made the trip from his winery in the small Carso area of Friuli to share his philosophy and experiences in wine making. Paolo looks like a “cool dude,” a tall man in his late 30s tall, with spiky hair and a leather jacket.  If there had been a motorcycle parked out front, it could easily have been his.  Not what one usually expects when meeting a winemaker from this area of the world.  He brought a couple of bottles from his personal cellar to add to the lunch, which was dedication above and beyond expectations.  The lunch was spectacular with the Butternut Squash Cajoles pairing perfectly with his wines, Paolo himself giving thumbs up to this magical food and wine combination.

Check our events page for upcoming winemaker events. Your favorite winemaker could come to break bread with IWM—and you.

Interview with Legend of the Cellar Franco Conterno

On wine, life, Americans and last meals

Last night, Franco Conterno, son of Barolo great Aldo Conterno, joined IWM for a sold-out event in our series “Legends of the Cellar.” Franco is a magnetic figure–a tall, imposing, composed Italian gentleman with slicked-back salt-and-pepper hair and an air of conviction. He started the dinner with a thoughtful reflection on his father’s estates and the wines the audience would be sharing, and all eyes were on him. Later, while sequestered in IWM’s Vintage Tasting Room and sipping ’88 Granbussia, Francesco Vigorito had the opportunity to ask Franco a few questions about wine, life and his last meal.

If you could teach American wine-lovers one thing, what would it be? I want people to respect all grapes and wines.  Whether it’s Nebbiolo, Pinot, or Cab, every wine deserves its place.

What do you drink when you’re not drinking your own wines? I love the elegance and complexity of great burgundy. I also appreciate what some American pinot has to offer, and from time to time, I’ll drink Bordeaux.

How do your wines reflect your winemaking philosophy? Firstly and foremost, I make wine that my family likes and I don’t give in to market/consumer trends.  Our ultimate goal is to make a wine that represents our soil. I have done my job if when people taste my wine they can recognize it as an “Aldo Conterno” Barolo.  There is nothing more important than this.  Every wine must have a stamp.

What is your favorite wine and food pairing? Because I am firstly Italian, it would have to be pasta dish with some sort of ragu.  Secondly I am from Piemonte, so I would choose to drink this with a Barolo. IWM was delighted to host this dinner that brought Franco together with our clients.

We’re also delighted that we introduced Franco to Nocciolo cheese, which we served with the ’88 Granbussia.  He was very impressed being a Piemontese. He had never tasted that cheese before and thought that it was wonderful and found it funny that he had to come to the States to try it.

Our next winemaker dinner will actually be a winemaker lunch with cult-wine producer Paolo Vodopivic from Friuli. It’s 1:00-3:00 this Saturday in New York City. Join in the conversation; it’ll be spirited!

Go-To-Wine Tuesday

Aldo Conterno Conca Tre Pile 2008

Though his Barolos may be celestial, they also command a commensurately elevated price. At less than $40, Aldo Conterno’s Conca Tre Pile falls solidly under the category of “affordable luxury” for many people.  Give the wine a little time to open in the glass, and find the wine’s nose is aromatic and pronounced, showing lots of dark, almost prune-like fruit. In fact, the fruit shows a much darker character than usually expected from a Barbera. On the palate, the wine expressed its typical vibrant acidity along with a slight earthy undertone, pairing well with a smoky and tangy tomato. On the finish, this Barbera is uncommonly tannic, owing to its aging in barrique for twelve months, but the tannins are velvety and balanced.

The 2008 Conca Tre Pile may not be an ornate or thought-provoking wine, but it is a welcome complement a simple meal. Sometimes simplicity is what you really want.

Just a note, you can taste this wine and many of Aldo Conterno’s thrilling Barolos at our Legends of the Cellar dinner on Wednesday, October 19—along with many other great wines from this master winemaker. Moreover, you can chat with Franco Conterno himself!

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