Inside IWM

The Inside Story from Italian Wine Merchants

Pricey Prosecco

New DOCG Status for Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene

Get ready, America. Prosecco prices are undoubtedly rising soon. But this increase is for good reason: the production zone of Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene has finally received DOCG Status. This superior growing zone is restricted to the hills around the towns of the Conegliano and Valdobbiadene in northern Veneto. In these areas, production yields are naturally lower due to vineyards being planted on sloping terraces.

As anyone worth his or her weight in jeroboams knows, low yields assure drinkers higher quality wines than those produced from vineyards with high yields, such as those wines formerly produced under the more relaxed DOC and IGTs of Veneto. These regions churn out enormous amounts of sparkling wine each year, and Prosecco from these areas have become very popular internationally due to their everyday price appeal. While there are certainly many products from these regions that drink well and have their place at the table, now there will be more quality wines.

The theory behind creating a new DOCG is to ensure that a higher quality product makes it to the market and to help reduce the large amount of overproduction in the area. Unquestionably, some concerns arise; many American consumers may balk at the price tag that will accompany these superior Proseccos because most American consumers see Prosecco as an alternative to more expensive champagne.  However, while DOCG will certainly fetch higher prices due smaller production, the installation of a Cru system similar to that of Barolo in Piedmont will also bring about far more exciting, high-quality, artisanal Proseccos. Soon DOCG producers will be able to label wines with a singular “Cru,” which will help bring more attention to the area and develop a profound following of Cru Prosecco.

The most important question is this: are Americans ready to fork over $30, $40, or even $50 for Cru Prosecco? Or will this entire idea backfire? It will be interesting to see. It will certainly be fun as a trade member to taste each Cru and experience what a boutique Prosecco tastes like.

Let me ask you: America, are you ready?

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Superbowl Bubbles

A User’s Guide to Cork Popping Perfection

This Sunday night, one thing is assured: someone in Miami will be popping a lot of Champagne. Though beer may be the beverage most often associated with football, the Superbowl calls for a loftier drink. And nothing says “giant, honking win accompanied by great big Superbowl champ ring and bragging rights” like Champagne.

There is something about the ritual of opening the bottle, the “pop” of the cork, and the fizzy bubbles that makes Champagne the most obvious toast of champions. There’s the noise, the expectation, the possibility that something could go awry, the sheer festivity of the effervescence, and the tradition. But there’s also no denying that Champagne is a celebration in a glass. Whether you’re rooting for the Colts or the Saints, you want to have Champagne at the ready.

Here are a few guidelines that will help anyone open a bottle without ruining the wine—or injuring any guests.

  1. Make sure the bottle is properly chilled; Champagne needs to be around 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
  2. Remove the foil; there’s usually a little tab or ear to grab and make it easier.
  3. While keeping one thumb pressed on the top of the cage, use your other hand to twist the little metal tab on the cage, usually about counterclockwise six turns.
  4. Remove the cage and put pressure on the cork, so it doesn’t shoot out. (The cork can become very narrow on older vintages, so be careful!).
  5. Hold the cork in place with your left hand, and slowly twist the bottle with your right. (Unless you’re left-handed, in which case reverse those directions.)
  6. When the cork starts to push out, hold it firmly and allow it to come out very slowly. When the cork is almost out, tilt the cork slightly to allow the CO2 to come out through the smaller space. You should hear a quiet “pffftt” sound—the quieter the better. If the pop is loud, it means that you’ve let out a lot more CO2, thus making the sparkling wine less sparkly.
  7. Pour into flutes and enjoy liberally while shouting “Who Dat!” at the top of your lungs. (Feel free to substitute other slogans at your discretion and to add flourishes such as high fives, chest bumps and touchdown booty bumps.)

If you follow the steps above, you’ll ensure a safe and happy toasting to the undoubted winners of Superbowl XLIV, the New Orleans Saints. You might also be able to toast the Colts, though I wouldn’t encourage your hopes.

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Taking Champagne Further Into the New Year

Or : Bubbles All Year Long

While I took ample advantage of the various bubble blow-outs at year’s end, I’ve also not been hesitant to pop corks into the new year.  I wanted to take a moment to share with you a few of the more delicious bottles I’ve enjoyed.  As you will see, I’ve been on a bit of a grower kick.

André Clouet Silver Grande Réserve Brut Nature NV:  lean, mineral and mouthwatering, this no-dosage, 100% Pinot Noir demands food.  It’s a serious Champagne that should not be a beginner apéritif wine.  Sadly, while I tried to explain that point to my hosts, my explanation was lost on them, even though they are complete wine geeks. One thing to remember about Champagne is this: just because there are bubbles doesn’t mean it comes first!  I’ve seen many a complex and full-bodied Grüner Veltliners consumed the same way—even by a table of aficionados.  The flute-shaped bottle likely directs those apéritif decisions, but it is an egregious error!

André Clouet Grande Réserve Brut NV: Clouet is in Bouzy where Pinot Noir rules and this wine contains its fair share.  I discovered these wines when buying for Spice Market New York and have found every bottle since to be delicious.  This bubbly is the more suitable wine simply to open and imbibe.

Georges Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy NV:  containing the trio of classic Champagne grapes (10% Pinot Meunier, 45% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay), this family domaine sources 20% of its juice from its own vineyards.  Whiffs of toastiness appear from 20% reserve wines used and 24-month sûr lee aging, but the freshness of the fruit typical in most grower wines dominates.

José Michel Pinot Meunier Brut NV: this Champagne hails from a grower producing 180,000 bottles annually.  Pinot Meunier accounts for 45% of their vine holdings, and this wine is a tribute to this variety, which is not often seen on its own.  Pinot Meunier provides a nice plumpness on the mid-palate as well as liveliness in the raspberry and rose aromas. Yummy!

Clos Cazal Blanc de Blancs 1995:  (Disclaimer:  this was a gift I pulled out of my cellar; I’ve not seen this wine in the US.)  The first vintage of a very limited production wine from a rare walled vineyard, this wine is definitely mature. While it can hold, I think it’s drinking just fine right now.  I’m keen to see how successive vintages are performing.

I hope that you find my continued foray into Champagnes inspiring and that you keep the corks a-poppin’ into 2010. And if you have, I’m curious, what bubblies have you been enjoying (or not)?

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