The incorporation of the new DOCG classification (Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore) ensures that wines from the two most prominent zones will face stricter controls and be given the highest guarantee. Comprised of fifteen communes (or townships), the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene zone is a hilly region with very steep slopes that require vineyard operations to be performed by hand, a practice that has been in place for over three centuries. In addition to the general designation, wines that derive from a single hillside will, in conjunction with standard DOCG labeling, include the term rive, which refers to the finest vineyards and those receiving favorable exposure.

According to Decanter, these “new regulations will also regulate yield for both the new DOC and DOCG zones should be reduced. The DOC will show the most drastic decrease – from the current 180hl/ha to 126hl/ha. There will also be a small reduction in yields in the DOCG zone, from 95hl/ha to 90hl/ha.”

What all this tech talk means for wine consumers is that we can expect a rise in the quality of Prosecco—that’s good news for us. Full of refreshing acidity, pleasant aromatics and delicate flavors of peach and green apple, Prosecco is a perfect sparkler for summer. And its reasonable price point and easy-drinking nature doesn’t hurt, either. However, because of these recent changes, Prosecco may become a more serious wine.

While Prosecco hasn’t carried the same prestige or fastidious production as Champagne— where secondary fermentation is carried out in bottle (méthode champenoise) as opposed to stainless steel tanks (the charmat method)—with the spanky new DOC/G areas and the accompanying raising of standards, it has a reason to take itself more seriously—even if it remains a seriously fun wine to drink!

Firstly, let’s define Champagne. Champagne is the toponym of one of the most northerly wine producing regions in France. The reason why a sparkling wine is produced here is that it’s too cold to produce substantial still wines; although there is an AOC that encompasses still wine production. The cold weather barely ripens the grapes in most vintages and thereby preserves the grapes’ high acidity.  In order for the wine to gain more body and flavor, the still wine is made sparkling. This sparkling character adds complexity, body and deliciousness that would otherwise be reticent in a still wine made from the same grapes. (For a more in-depth look into how Champagne is made check here.)

There are three main styles of Champagne, which can theoretically come from six varieties allowed by law; these styles are Blanc de Blanc, Blanc de Noirs and Rosé. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier are the three primary grapes associated with Champagne, although there are three more that rarely appear: Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, and Petit Meslier.

Noir et Blanc

Blanc de Blanc is a term that you will see on a label and is really quite easy to understand. Blanc de Blanc, or “white of whites, “denotes a style of Champagne that is made entirely from Chardonnay grapes. This type of wine will be very creamy, elegant, aromatic and slightly light in body.  Opposite of this style is Blanc de Noirs, or “white from blacks.” Though we associate red grapes and red wine, it is possible to make white wine from black grapes because all grape juice is essentially colorless; the color comes from the grape skins. Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier are the two grapes allowed in this style.  These wines will tend to be more full bodied, richer and slightly less acidic. Rosé is also made by adding still red wine to the final blend or by the saigneé method, which is when the skins and pulp of the black grapes are left to macerate on the juice, thus tingeing the clear juice pink.

Champagne also comes in varying degrees of sweetness. After disgorgement, or the removal of the lees, a dosage is added to the wine. The dosage consists of a sugary liquid created by a specific recipe.

The varying degrees of sweetness:

What all of this information means to you, the wine drinker, is that you can choose the sweetness or dryness of your champagne within a really clear margin of error. If you know you want a very dry wine, you look for Brut, Extra Brut or Brut Nature. And if you want sweeter Champagne, you go to the other end of the spectrum.

A Perfect Pair

This spectrum of choice brings us to our next dilemma, which is what to pair with Champagne. The great thing about this wine is that it’s incredibly flexible and complements a wide variety of foods.  In fact, Champagne’s acidity, aromatics and effervescence allow it to be paired with just about anything.

Sushi and Blanc de Blancs is spectacular combination that melds the freshness and elegance in both items; this pair is one of my favorites.  Look to pair a Blanc de Noirs with mushroom crostini—mushrooms and Champagne are classic together. In general, the dry styles of Champagne (Brut Nature and Brut) pair wonderfully with simply prepared lake or ocean fish, shellfish, mollusks and cheese. Look to pair tangy goat cheese with a bright and crisp Champagne, and aged cheeses like Gouda, Cheddar and Parmigianino develop nutty and sweet flavors that parallel the nuances in aged Champagne; it’s especially stunning with Langres, a cow’s milk cheese that’s soft, creamy white and slightly crumbly.  Also, it’s worth noting that Champagne is one of the few wines that work well with eggs. There’s a reason why Champagne is served with brunch, and there’s no reason why you shouldn’t serve it at night with a soufflé or a quiche.

While Champagne is fabulous with everything from endive soup to macadamia nuts, do be aware of its limitations. For example, don’t pair sweet items with dry styles of Champagne. The sugars of the food will occupy your sweet receptors, thereby killing any of the wine’s sweetness.  Indeed, the acid of the Champagne will take the front seat and be quite overwhelming. Also, the only foods that do not bode well for Champagne are red meats and anything too cold. Ice cream floats, for example, are best saved for root beer. Do enjoy Champagne’s sweet styles with basically any sugary substance that you can conjure up—fruit tarts, fresh fruit, and poached apples make angelic pairings.

Consider yourself a proud graduate of Champagne 101.

Now pick your favorite pairing, pop a cork and enjoy the magic!

The region of Champagne is the most northerly wine producing region in France. This region really pushes the envelope for the cultivation of grapes because it gets almost too cold for the grapes to ripen. It often rains, limiting the amount of sunshine and warmth that reach the vines. Late spring frosts are dangerous—often even a killer.  The weather is unforgiving, and the decrease in yields sometimes adds the cost, but also the flavor, of a bottle of Champagne.

In addition to producers growing their grapes under difficult conditions, the method to make Champagne is not for slackers. It’s labor intense, no question. Let’s look at a breakdown of the steps you have to take to make a prime bottle of bubbly.

Step 1: The grapes are harvested like those for any other wine; then they’re pressed and fermented in large stainless steel or glass vats.  Some producers, such as Krug, Bollinger and Vilmart, use 225 liter barriques for this fermentation.

Step 2:  5-6 months later the wine is ready for blending.  Non-vintage champagne is a blend of about 40-50 wines from as many as ten different years.  This step is crucial because this is what gives the champagne its consistent taste year after year.  The blending technician is very skilled and knows exactly the percentages of which wines to blend depending on the current years organoleptic qualities. Imagine a chemist in a lab with the nose of a bloodhound and the prognostic skills of a psychic, and you’ll get a picture of what goes into the making of a blending technician.

Step 3:  After the wines are blended in a vat, a liquer de tirage is added to the wine.  This blend is a carefully mixed quantity of mostly liquid sugar and yeast.  The sugar and the yeast are what allow the second fermentation to take place in the bottle. See technician above.

Step 4: After the addition of the liquer de tirage, the wine is bottled and capped.  If too much sugar was added in the liquer, the bottle can explode, and if not enough, there will be no carbonation.  Remember the equation for fermentation is this: sugar + yeast—->ethanol + CO2.  After the bottling they are laid on their sides in chalk caves, so the second fermentation can take place.  During this period the yeast die in a process called autolysis.  The dead yeast cells sink to the bottom imparting yeasty, bread-like aromas to the wine as well as complexity. The bottles must be left in this position for at least fifteen months for non-vintage and three years for vintage champagne.

Step 5:  Now that the yeast is dead, there arrives the long and sometimes laborious process calledremuage.  This is when the dead yeast cells are coaxed into the neck of the bottle.  Back before the use of machinery, a man called a remuer would turn and angle everybottle of champagne a little downward every day into a vertical position.  A top remuer can riddle, or manually turn, around 40,000 bottles per day.  Some houses still use a remuer, but they are very costly and time consuming.   Most houses now use a girasol.  This a piece of machinery holds about 500 bottles and replicates the remuage process.

Step 6:  Twelve to twenty weeks later, the bottles are in a vertical position, and it is time to remove all that sediment that has accumulated in the neck.  One method called a la volee, uses the pressure inside of bottle to force the sediment out after the enclosure has been removed.  The other and more common method is called a la glace.  In this method the neck of the bottle is dipped into a freezing brine solution, which freezes the sediment; when the enclosure is removed, the ice and sediment shoot out.  This process is called degorgement for obvious reasons.

Step 7: To replace some of the wine that has been lost during the last step, a measured amount of sweetened wine is added to the bottle.  This mixture is called the liqueur d’expedition, and it’s what gives the wine some residual sugar and house flavor. Finally, the champagne is topped with the mushroom cork a wire cage and is ready for shipment or storage.

It’s not easy to produce champagne—especially because the caves where the champagne is stored are carved from the chalk soils that run twenty feet into the ground.  The chalk provides the perfect storage temperature for the wine.  By capturing heat during the day and radiating it during the cold nights, the internal temperature remains constant.  From growing the grapes, to mixing the wines, to dealing with yeast, to storing the wine, it’s a whole big thing, but Champagne done right is a wine unlike any other.

As we know from any cursory study of economics, the more labor and that goes into making something, the rarer it is. The smaller the amount and the greater the demand, the more something costs. Champagne is, in many ways, a textbook study of market pressures. But what a delicious, tantalizing and seductive study it is. Expensive, yes, but if you love it, it’s worth every penny.

As anyone worth his or her weight in jeroboams knows, low yields assure drinkers higher quality wines than those produced from vineyards with high yields, such as those wines formerly produced under the more relaxed DOC and IGTs of Veneto. These regions churn out enormous amounts of sparkling wine each year, and Prosecco from these areas have become very popular internationally due to their everyday price appeal. While there are certainly many products from these regions that drink well and have their place at the table, now there will be more quality wines.

The theory behind creating a new DOCG is to ensure that a higher quality product makes it to the market and to help reduce the large amount of overproduction in the area. Unquestionably, some concerns arise; many American consumers may balk at the price tag that will accompany these superior Proseccos because most American consumers see Prosecco as an alternative to more expensive champagne.  However, while DOCG will certainly fetch higher prices due smaller production, the installation of a Cru system similar to that of Barolo in Piedmont will also bring about far more exciting, high-quality, artisanal Proseccos. Soon DOCG producers will be able to label wines with a singular “Cru,” which will help bring more attention to the area and develop a profound following of Cru Prosecco.

The most important question is this: are Americans ready to fork over $30, $40, or even $50 for Cru Prosecco? Or will this entire idea backfire? It will be interesting to see. It will certainly be fun as a trade member to taste each Cru and experience what a boutique Prosecco tastes like.

Let me ask you: America, are you ready?

There is something about the ritual of opening the bottle, the “pop” of the cork, and the fizzy bubbles that makes Champagne the most obvious toast of champions. There’s the noise, the expectation, the possibility that something could go awry, the sheer festivity of the effervescence, and the tradition. But there’s also no denying that Champagne is a celebration in a glass. Whether you’re rooting for the Colts or the Saints, you want to have Champagne at the ready.

Here are a few guidelines that will help anyone open a bottle without ruining the wine—or injuring any guests.

1. Make sure the bottle is properly chilled; Champagne needs to be around 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Remove the foil; there’s usually a little tab or ear to grab and make it easier.
3. While keeping one thumb pressed on the top of the cage, use your other hand to twist the little metal tab on the cage, usually about counterclockwise six turns.
4. Remove the cage and put pressure on the cork, so it doesn’t shoot out. (The cork can become very narrow on older vintages, so be careful!).
5. Hold the cork in place with your left hand, and slowly twist the bottle with your right. (Unless you’re left-handed, in which case reverse those directions.)
6. When the cork starts to push out, hold it firmly and allow it to come out very slowly. When the cork is almost out, tilt the cork slightly to allow the CO₂ to come out through the smaller space. You should hear a quiet “pffftt” sound—the quieter the better. If the pop is loud, it means that you’ve let out a lot more CO₂, thus making the sparkling wine less sparkly.
7. Pour into flutes and enjoy liberally while shouting “Who Dat!” at the top of your lungs. (Feel free to substitute other slogans at your discretion and to add flourishes such as high fives, chest bumps and touchdown booty bumps.)

If you follow the steps above, you’ll ensure a safe and happy toasting to the undoubted winners of Superbowl XLIV, the New Orleans Saints. You might also be able to toast the Colts, though I wouldn’t encourage your hopes.

André Clouet Silver Grande Réserve Brut Nature NV:  lean, mineral and mouthwatering, this no-dosage, 100% Pinot Noir demands food.  It’s a serious Champagne that should not be a beginner apéritif wine.  Sadly, while I tried to explain that point to my hosts, my explanation was lost on them, even though they are complete wine geeks. One thing to remember about Champagne is this: just because there are bubbles doesn’t mean it comes first!  I’ve seen many a complex and full-bodied Grüner Veltliners consumed the same way—even by a table of aficionados.  The flute-shaped bottle likely directs those apéritif decisions, but it is an egregious error!

André Clouet Grande Réserve Brut NV: Clouet is in Bouzy where Pinot Noir rules and this wine contains its fair share.  I discovered these wines when buying for Spice Market New York and have found every bottle since to be delicious.  This bubbly is the more suitable wine simply to open and imbibe.

Georges Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy NV:  containing the trio of classic Champagne grapes (10% Pinot Meunier, 45% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay), this family domaine sources 20% of its juice from its own vineyards.  Whiffs of toastiness appear from 20% reserve wines used and 24-month sûr lee aging, but the freshness of the fruit typical in most grower wines dominates.

José Michel Pinot Meunier Brut NV: this Champagne hails from a grower producing 180,000 bottles annually.  Pinot Meunier accounts for 45% of their vine holdings, and this wine is a tribute to this variety, which is not often seen on its own.  Pinot Meunier provides a nice plumpness on the mid-palate as well as liveliness in the raspberry and rose aromas. Yummy!

Clos Cazal Blanc de Blancs 1995:  (Disclaimer:  this was a gift I pulled out of my cellar; I’ve not seen this wine in the US.)  The first vintage of a very limited production wine from a rare walled vineyard, this wine is definitely mature. While it can hold, I think it’s drinking just fine right now.  I’m keen to see how successive vintages are performing.

I hope that you find my continued foray into Champagnes inspiring and that you keep the corks a-poppin’ into 2010. And if you have, I’m curious, what bubblies have you been enjoying (or not)?

I’ve noticed over the last year that people are drinking less sparkling wine that’s outstanding, especially Champagne. I have read that this decreased consumption is because people are “trading down,” which is to say that they’re drinking cheaper stuff. I’ve also heard that it’s not just cost that’s making people reach for the cheap stuff—people feel guilty celebrating while so many others are suffering. They don’t want to be seen as insensitive. I have strong feelings about this phenomenon, and they boil down to the belief that these choices, while understandable, are misguided.

At IWM we celebrate life, and we celebrate the opportunity to share our passion with people who are not only our clients but who also become part of our extended families. Before we begin many meals, we delicately open a bottle of sparkling wine. Beyond the grandeur in the glass, a sparkler is the perfect beverage to gently awaken the palate and to create a sense of bonhomie—plus, sparkling wines also have the unusual ability to be paired with a wide variety of culinary creations.  For all of its decadent reputation, sparkling wine—whether Prosecco, Champagne, Cava, Puro or any other of the myriad varieties—is more or less a perfect libation.

While I certainly understand fiscal responsibility, I’m skeptical that someone’s Champagne consumption is the reason for that person’s financial demise.  Think of this. One in ten Americans will drink a bottle of Champagne in a year—and that statistic comes from 2006, before our consumption plummeted. Even if someone needs to live within a tidy budget, I feel compelled to argue that when we are fortunate to break bread with people we love, with people we admire, and with people we respect, we need to bear in mind that it’s important to honor those occasions. It’s just not the time to “trade down.” A bottle of Veuve may be $40, but the experience is priceless.

It comes as no surprise, then, that in this new year, I sincerely recommend that we all drink more sparkling wines with our colleagues, friends and loved ones.  My list of sparkling wines to enjoy would begin with Prestige Cuvees. I love the elegance of Salon, the grandeur of Krug, and the harmony of Pol Roger, Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill. I would urge my friends to drink deeply of Rose; Billecart Salmon Rose would begin the list, but Roger Coulon Rose should also be enjoyed, early and often. Looking to areas outside of France, I love Movia’s Puro Rose, and Bruno Giacosa makes a lovely Spumante Brut from 100% Pinot Noir. Finally, Elio Perrone’s Moscatos are also as elegant as any sparkling wine made anywhere in the world.

It’s a new year, and an opportunity to make changes. Sure, keep your bank balance in the black, but remember that life is short, time is fleeting, and you need to eat, drink and be merry.

A few nights ago, Sergio asked me to lead a dinner he was hosting with two of his partners for some very special guests. I was eager to return to my service roots and excited to lend a helping hand. On this evening the store glowed with soft lighting and twinkling red votive candles.  Andrea Bocelli’s Christmas album played in the background, and the smell of Chef Kevin’s cuisine lingered in the air. I greeted our guests with a glass of Salon 1997, an unrivaled Blanc de Blancs with a pale gold hue, subtle apple fruit, racy minerality and an elegant finish. It complemented the beautiful antipasti: a selection of regional Italian cheeses, an assortment of marinated vegetables, cured salumi and our fresh crudo.  I could see our guests beginning to unwind as the Salon began to take effect.

The conversation became more spirited, postures more relaxed and smiles surrounded the table. Lobster was served next, paired with Gravner Breg Anfora 2002 and Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2004. The organic nature of the brilliantly crafted Gravner was a classic complement to the dish. Its silky tannins mirroring the delicate texture of the lobster, the Torte showed how a soft red can provide a perfect match to seafood. After the lobster, we delighted our new friends by presenting pappardelle pasta with braised duck paired with Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2004 and Talenti Brunello Riserva Vigna Paretaio 1999. I had decanted the Talenti two hours before the dinner to allow the wine to open, and it was delicious. I could see our guests were reveling in their experience. They had been seduced by the lobster pairing, and the pasta course established trust between us.  The anxiety from the frenzied New York pace was dissipating.

The meal’s crescendo arrived accompanied by dramatic flair—Gianfranco Soldera’s Case Basse di Soldera Brunello di Montalcino 1993 and Case Basse di Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1983. The wines were simply majestic. If ever there was a wine that was like a cathedral song, it would be Soldera’s remarkable Brunellos. A festival of grilled meats was served family style to accompany these gorgeous wines. The 1993 was still showing concentrated dark red fruits and firm tannins, while the 1983 had evolved into perfect balance. The guests were delighted; we had exceeded their expectations. They were ready to ease into dessert.

We did not end our meal with a gentle expression; rather, we finished the culinary experience with a kaleidoscope of flavor. We turned to the Master of the Veneto, Giuseppe Quintarelli and his 1986 Recioto della Valpollicella, a wine whose sweet, black fruit nectar is framed by violets and tar, and whose finish is elegant and long. The wine was matched by Dolce Gorgonzola a sweet, creamy, dense blue cheese. It served as the canvas to the wine’s purple fruit. The meal’s finishing touch came from Jacques Selosse Exquise.  Crafted for Alain Ducasse as a dessert Champagne, the wine shows a bit of sweetness in the front of the palate but finishes with Selosse’s signature expression of elegant minerality.

The guests were impressed. As they put their coats on they hugged Sergio and thanked him for another supreme effort. Sergio profusely and sincerely thanked them for the opportunity to share his passion. I watched, and witnessed more than the natural end of a perfect meal. I saw that Italian Wine Merchants is not merely a business that Sergio created; it’s the embodiment of all he holds sacred.

The night was a scattered one. As usual, we were both running a bit late from work, so we had to rush to make it to our 7:30 reservation.  We arrived at the restaurant to find that our table was not quite ready yet.  As we were fighting to get to the bar to ask for menus and a cocktail, it started to rain heavily.  I’ve been around restaurants and New York to know that this change in weather meant we’d have to wait even longer for our table.

As we waited, chatting and watching the rain fall, my wife and I also looked over the menu carefully and watched some of the food coming out of the kitchen.  We divided and conquered: my wife looked at the food menu, while I pored over the wine list.  We finished at the same time, looked up at each other and said completely different things.

She said, “I’m not sure what I’m going to order: nothing is jumping at me.”

I said, “I see something jumping at me, but it is a bit out of our price range.”

As we discussed food, I thought about that bottle a bit more, and I really began to suspect that it was grossly mispriced with the error in the consumer’s favor.  As our waiter took us to the table I did some quick math and said to my wife that I’d handle the ordering. The waiter asked if we had any questions about the menu. I held up the wine list and asked if the price next to my bottle of choice was a misprint.  He took a look and told me that the number listed was in fact the price. I was sure he was thinking that my choice, a 1996 Salon, was a lot of money. I did some more math, looked at the rain, looked at my wife, and said, “Fine, we will take the bottle.  Can we also just have an order of French fries?” The waiter said, “Of course,” and he left to get the bottle, flutes and bucket.

My wife heard the name of the wine. “Are you crazy?” she hissed as the waiter walked away.  I had anticipated her objection and calmly I explained my math. I told her the Champagne was under-priced by $200, and if we order three courses and a bottle we would end up spending the same money as this meal of fries and serendipitous Champagne.  She sat silently for a moment, and smiled. I knew I’d won.

When the wine came with the French fries, I discovered that it was one of the most divine pairings that Kathy and I have ever had—mostly because of that  bottle of Salon. I learned three things that night. The first was that 1996 Salon is one of the best Champagnes I have ever had; the second was that waiting for a table a bit too long can lead to unbelievable menu discoveries; and the third was that there is always a good pizza place on the way home if you drink, rather than eat, your restaurant budget.

I love bubbles in all forms, but I particularly like the styles of the classic “grandes marques.”  Never a worry – I’m not turning away any glass of “Grower Champagne” – I just find the toasty, biscuity character typical in the grande marque wines, as well as in older Champagnes, to be my overall favorite.  I also find the perlage of the large houses to be finer, more whispy (if you will allow me that descriptor), due to longer lees ageing and colder fermentation temperatures. Grower Champagnes tend to have a youthful exuberance that lends to quaffability and that comes from having fewer stocks of older wine to blend into non-vintage wines. This does not detract from their complexity; it just gives them a different character.

For casual drinking, I find a dollop or more of Champagne’s red varieties appealing, but for maximized complexity and enchantment, I look to Blanc de Blancs.  Disclaimer:  I often find Blanc de Blancs a bit challenging without age or food, given their feisty acidity.  Rosés come in a plethora of fascinating hues, and while I generally find them less complex, I do have a clear favorite: any cuvée from Billecart-Salmon.  As for the escalating trend of low- and no-dosage wines, I am skeptical.  I often find them more interesting than enjoyable, and I have company.  Chatting at the Bubble Lounge on Thursday night, Bernie Sun (Wine Director of Jean-Georges Management) brought up Roederer’s announcement that very day that it is releasing a new Brut Nature called Ultra Brut, to be priced in the area of Roederer vintage wines.  For both of us, Champagne’s high acidity, which is further emphasized by its bubbles (CO2 creates perceived acidity – just think of how sparkling water is more refreshing than flat water), needs a little taming of residual sugar and certainly needs the accompaniment of food, regardless of the arguments made about mounting ripeness levels in the region.  Finally, there are the Champagnes that drink with the weight of pensive, still wines.  The Roger Coulon wines Sergio discovered for IWM are a fine example.  Here is a perfect example of one of those maddeningly, delightful exceptions that are all over the wine world – grower Champagne with mind-blowing complexity that shows more mature flavors from cask-aging the base wines.

This week we are offering a generous selection of bubbly, from 375ml to 15L, from non-vintage to tête de cuvee, from grandes marques and growers alike.  There’s an occasion for each, and we hope you find many so that you can experiment among the plethora of styles.