The Inside Story from Italian Wine Merchants

Sparkling Wines: Now More Than Ever

Or: Why It’s Important to Honor Occasions

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I’ve noticed over the last year that people are drinking less sparkling wine that’s outstanding, especially Champagne. I have read that this decreased consumption is because people are “trading down,” which is to say that they’re drinking cheaper stuff. I’ve also heard that it’s not just cost that’s making people reach for the cheap stuff—people feel guilty celebrating while so many others are suffering. They don’t want to be seen as insensitive. I have strong feelings about this phenomenon, and they boil down to the belief that these choices, while understandable, are misguided.

At IWM we celebrate life, and we celebrate the opportunity to share our passion with people who are not only our clients but who also become part of our extended families. Before we begin many meals, we delicately open a bottle of sparkling wine. Beyond the grandeur in the glass, a sparkler is the perfect beverage to gently awaken the palate and to create a sense of bonhomie—plus, sparkling wines also have the unusual ability to be paired with a wide variety of culinary creations.  For all of its decadent reputation, sparkling wine—whether Prosecco, Champagne, Cava, Puro or any other of the myriad varieties—is more or less a perfect libation.

While I certainly understand fiscal responsibility, I’m skeptical that someone’s Champagne consumption is the reason for that person’s financial demise.  Think of this. One in ten Americans will drink a bottle of Champagne in a year—and that statistic comes from 2006, before our consumption plummeted. Even if someone needs to live within a tidy budget, I feel compelled to argue that when we are fortunate to break bread with people we love, with people we admire, and with people we respect, we need to bear in mind that it’s important to honor those occasions. It’s just not the time to “trade down.” A bottle of Veuve may be $40, but the experience is priceless.

It comes as no surprise, then, that in this new year, I sincerely recommend that we all drink more sparkling wines with our colleagues, friends and loved ones.  My list of sparkling wines to enjoy would begin with Prestige Cuvees. I love the elegance of Salon, the grandeur of Krug, and the harmony of Pol Roger, Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill. I would urge my friends to drink deeply of Rose; Billecart Salmon Rose would begin the list, but Roger Coulon Rose should also be enjoyed, early and often. Looking to areas outside of France, I love Movia’s Puro Rose, and Bruno Giacosa makes a lovely Spumante Brut from 100% Pinot Noir. Finally, Elio Perrone’s Moscatos are also as elegant as any sparkling wine made anywhere in the world.

It’s a new year, and an opportunity to make changes. Sure, keep your bank balance in the black, but remember that life is short, time is fleeting, and you need to eat, drink and be merry.

Revelations in the Vintage Tasting Room

A Night in the Life of Service & Hospitality
Events is the Studio del Gusto & the Vintage Tasting Room

A few nights ago, Sergio asked me to lead a dinner he was hosting with two of his partners for some very special guests. I was eager to return to my service roots and excited to lend a helping hand. On this evening the store glowed with soft lighting and twinkling red votive candles.  Andrea Bocelli’s Christmas album played in the background, and the smell of Chef Kevin’s cuisine lingered in the air. I greeted our guests with a glass of Salon 1997, an unrivaled Blanc de Blancs with a pale gold hue, subtle apple fruit, racy minerality and an elegant finish. It complemented the beautiful antipasti: a selection of regional Italian cheeses, an assortment of marinated vegetables, cured salumi and our fresh crudo.  I could see our guests beginning to unwind as the Salon began to take effect.

The conversation became more spirited, postures more relaxed and smiles surrounded the table. Lobster was served next, paired with Gravner Breg Anfora 2002 and Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2004. The organic nature of the brilliantly crafted Gravner was a classic complement to the dish. Its silky tannins mirroring the delicate texture of the lobster, the Torte showed how a soft red can provide a perfect match to seafood. After the lobster, we delighted our new friends by presenting pappardelle pasta with braised duck paired with Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2004 and Talenti Brunello Riserva Vigna Paretaio 1999. I had decanted the Talenti two hours before the dinner to allow the wine to open, and it was delicious. I could see our guests were reveling in their experience. They had been seduced by the lobster pairing, and the pasta course established trust between us.  The anxiety from the frenzied New York pace was dissipating.

The meal’s crescendo arrived accompanied by dramatic flair—Gianfranco Soldera’s Case Basse di Soldera Brunello di Montalcino 1993 and Case Basse di Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1983. The wines were simply majestic. If ever there was a wine that was like a cathedral song, it would be Soldera’s remarkable Brunellos. A festival of grilled meats was served family style to accompany these gorgeous wines. The 1993 was still showing concentrated dark red fruits and firm tannins, while the 1983 had evolved into perfect balance. The guests were delighted; we had exceeded their expectations. They were ready to ease into dessert.

We did not end our meal with a gentle expression; rather, we finished the culinary experience with a kaleidoscope of flavor. We turned to the Master of the Veneto, Giuseppe Quintarelli and his 1986 Recioto della Valpollicella, a wine whose sweet, black fruit nectar is framed by violets and tar, and whose finish is elegant and long. The wine was matched by Dolce Gorgonzola a sweet, creamy, dense blue cheese. It served as the canvas to the wine’s purple fruit. The meal’s finishing touch came from Jacques Selosse Exquise.  Crafted for Alain Ducasse as a dessert Champagne, the wine shows a bit of sweetness in the front of the palate but finishes with Selosse’s signature expression of elegant minerality.

The guests were impressed. As they put their coats on they hugged Sergio and thanked him for another supreme effort. Sergio profusely and sincerely thanked them for the opportunity to share his passion. I watched, and witnessed more than the natural end of a perfect meal. I saw that Italian Wine Merchants is not merely a business that Sergio created; it’s the embodiment of all he holds sacred.

Serendipity and the Enjoyment of Salon ‘96

Champagne + Fries = Bliss

Avid foodies, my wife and I are trying to eat our way though New York City, and on the way we have found some really interesting food and wine pairings. A recent trip to a recommended restaurant brought us the simplest—and most surprising—one yet: really good Champagne and French fries!

The night was a scattered one. As usual, we were both running a bit late from work, so we had to rush to make it to our 7:30 reservation.  We arrived at the restaurant to find that our table was not quite ready yet.  As we were fighting to get to the bar to ask for menus and a cocktail, it started to rain heavily.  I’ve been around restaurants and New York to know that this change in weather meant we’d have to wait even longer for our table.

As we waited, chatting and watching the rain fall, my wife and I also looked over the menu carefully and watched some of the food coming out of the kitchen.  We divided and conquered: my wife looked at the food menu, while I pored over the wine list.  We finished at the same time, looked up at each other and said completely different things.

She said, “I’m not sure what I’m going to order: nothing is jumping at me.”

I said, “I see something jumping at me, but it is a bit out of our price range.”

As we discussed food, I thought about that bottle a bit more, and I really began to suspect that it was grossly mispriced with the error in the consumer’s favor.  As our waiter took us to the table I did some quick math and said to my wife that I’d handle the ordering. The waiter asked if we had any questions about the menu. I held up the wine list and asked if the price next to my bottle of choice was a misprint.  He took a look and told me that the number listed was in fact the price. I was sure he was thinking that my choice, a 1996 Salon, was a lot of money. I did some more math, looked at the rain, looked at my wife, and said, “Fine, we will take the bottle.  Can we also just have an order of French fries?” The waiter said, “Of course,” and he left to get the bottle, flutes and bucket.

My wife heard the name of the wine. “Are you crazy?” she hissed as the waiter walked away.  I had anticipated her objection and calmly I explained my math. I told her the Champagne was under-priced by $200, and if we order three courses and a bottle we would end up spending the same money as this meal of fries and serendipitous Champagne.  She sat silently for a moment, and smiled. I knew I’d won.

When the wine came with the French fries, I discovered that it was one of the most divine pairings that Kathy and I have ever had—mostly because of that  bottle of Salon. I learned three things that night. The first was that 1996 Salon is one of the best Champagnes I have ever had; the second was that waiting for a table a bit too long can lead to unbelievable menu discoveries; and the third was that there is always a good pizza place on the way home if you drink, rather than eat, your restaurant budget.