Il Palazzone's Sangiovese vines under a glowering sky.

Sangiovese is the greatest grape in the world. I realize that’s a pretty bold statement. In Italy alone there are thousands of different grape varieties, not to mention everything that’s growing in France, Spain, Germany, North and South America, the various lands down under, and everywhere else. Still, I stand behind my assertion. Sangiovese is a remarkably flexible grape. It can be made into precocious styles like Chianti (though one of my favorite wineslast year was a serious vintage Chianti) or more cellar-worthy wines like Brunello.  Some of the best vintage wine I have had has been made with the Sangiovese grape, and this variety can hang with the best. Let’s take a look at some popular varieties and see why they aren’t as special as Sangiovese.  Cab, Merlot, Pinot, Syrah, Grenache, Chardonnay, Sauv Blanc, Chenin Blanc can essentially be planted anywhere. From New Zealand to Cali, Germany, and South Africa, these varieties exist abundantly.  Even though these grapes find their homeland in France, they can grow very well in many different countries–these grapes essentially act as blank canvases so that the winemaker can paint his or her picture. This is not the case for Sangiovese. Sangiovese, like many other indigenous Italian grape varieties, can really only be grown in their place of origin; for Sangiovese that would be Tuscany.  Unlike Cab and Merlot and other popular grapes, Sangiovese is an extremely difficult grape to grow correctly.  It grows prolifically, buds early, ripens late, and it possesses a thin skin, a light body, rough tannins and high acidity.  This will normally spell disaster for most wines.  Trying to manage all of these deficiencies is quite difficult—for the winemaker, it’s like juggling a kitten, a chainsaw, a raw egg and a bowling ball and not ending up with a mess.

Fontodi's Sangiovese vines under a bright Tuscan sky.

Not only do you need an accomplished winemaker, you also need the right terroir. Somewhere with nice elevation, poor soils and ventilation combined with a variances between day and night temperatures is ideal. Elevation provides warm days and cool nights and higher climes will also mean more breeze. A good breeze both gives good air circulation and prevents mold and rot. Poor soils work to counteract the fecundity of Sangiovese, and they lend character to the fruit. Sunshine gives enough heat for the tannins never ripen and the sugars to develop, while the acidity remains high. It’s tough to find all of these points holding hands and working together—except in Tuscany. Now don’t get me wrong; you can find outcrops of Sangiovese in America, but they are few and far between.  The climate isn’t the same (too hot) and the soils just don’t do this grape justice.  You will never see Sangiovese grown in France, Germany, Spain and the rest, which is why it is so special. That and the fact that it makes an incredibly delicious wine that marries fruit with structure, age-worthiness with immediate satisfaction, and fun with finesse. Here are some Sangiovese varietal wines that I’m really enjoying right now: 2008 Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006 San Giusto a Rentanano Chianti Classico “Baroncole” 2004 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Il Macchione Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Last night, after spending a glorious holiday weekend relaxing under abundant sun and cloudless blue skies with friends and family, I felt a sudden change. The Brooklyn sky turned an odd shade of gray-green, streaked with lightning, and marble-sized hail began to pelt against my window. As the storm passed, I climbed out onto my fire escape to stand and watch a river of ice flowing down the streets of Park Slope.  Weather phenomenon never ceases to amaze me.

I like to be surprised, to be caught off-guard, and to be reminded of nature’s ability to defy expectation. I like it in weather, and I like it in wine. One case in point is Castello Fageto’s 2008 Rosso Piceno that bursts from the bottle much like hail from the sky—or the sunshine that comes after.  The 50/50 Sangiovese-Montepulciano blend is a bright red, firmly structured wine with soft but noticeable tannins and jaunty acidity.  Best of all, at $16.70, it’s a bargain wine for everyday drinking that will surprise you, unless of course, you already expect the unexpected.

Le Marche’s Castello Fageto is nestled between the counties of Campofilone and Pedaso along the Adriatic Sea. Respect for the land is an essential part of the estate’s family values, and in the winery business, they are primary objectives. The use of friendly agricultural methods and alternative energy sources (the winery is self sufficient in its energy needs through solar power) guarantee the quality of the product as well as the preservation of the environment.  Equal care and attention is paid to the work that follows both during harvest and again in the winery where the Di Ruscio family works together with winemaker Pierluigi Lorenzetti.

Value wines can be surprising—in a good way. Color me pleasantly surprised by this one.

Lioness after a glass of Soldera

Here is question that I often get asked, being the only wine nerd in my family: I sometimes drink a glass of wine and get pretty sleepy afterward. What is it about wine that makes you tired?

This question, in some ways, stands for everything that wine represents, and its simplest response also answers all wine questions: wine affects everyone differently. It makes a lot of people tired, but many people also feel invigorated, those like me, for instance. Drinking a glass of wine, be it cheap jug wine or  high-end juice, creates a personal experience for your mind, palate and body.

Of course, simple answers rarely give satisfaction, and thus we look to the more complex. Alcohol—all alcohol—is a depressant.  Ethanol, the principal alcohol in wine, inhibits the activity of the central nervous system pure and simple. This in turn, makes you feel “down” and sleepy.

Some other people blame their wine-related sleepiness on sulfites. While sulfites are sometimes added to wine to help preserve it, they’re also added to cold cuts, hot dogs and other preserved meats. Sulfites in wine also occur naturally; they’re just there, a byproduct of fermenting grapes. Many people blame the sulfites in wine for a host of woes like headaches, allergies, hangovers and sleepiness. It may or may not be the sulfites that make you tired because, as I said before, everyone is different. Maybe hot dogs make you sleepy too.

There may be additional research that suggests wine’s role as a soporific. Recently, Italian scientists tested eight varieties of grapes for melatonin, the sleep hormone that is secreted by the pineal gland in your brain.  These scientists found large levels of this hormone, or a possible melatonin-like compound, in the skins of the grapes.  Nebbiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese had the highest amounts.  However, there is skepticism from other scientists that the compound found may not actually be melatonin. Clearly, more testing is in order.

If you find yourself getting tired because of wine, try to eat something before you drink as to slow the absorption of alcohol into your system. Or just drink near your bed. There are worse things than drinking a glass of wine and taking a nap.

Sting and wife Trudie Styler

Whenever celebrities start making their own wine, I tend to roll my eyes. It’s as if their oversaturated egos have merely found another outlet, for they rarely deliver on the quality. I admit that this gut reaction is not always warranted; Francis Ford Coppola has made some great Riservas, Tool’s Maynard James Keenan is gaining quite a cult status with his Arizona wines, Caduceus, and adult film star Savannah Samson has turned out some seriously respectable reds, Sogno Uno. Therefore, when I heard that legendary rocker Sting and wife Trudie Styler opened a food and wine shop at their Toscana estate, Tenuta Il Palagio, I did anything but shrug.

The couple moved to Italy in 1997 and have been growing produce and making their own wine for many years straight from their 900-acre estate, which dates back to the 16^th century, in the town of Figline Valdarno, nearly 20 miles south of Florence. It turns out that Sting’s playing the gentleman farmer isn’t just a passing phase.

Since they started cultivating their lands, the couple has sold to a handful of outlets in the US and Britain, including London’s luxury department store Harrod’s. However, now their products will be directly available from the farm doors. The new shop will sell olive oil, acacia honey, vegetables, salami made from local boars, and other food grown by the couple on their land. Most interestingly, Sting’s wine will be available at the boutique shop.

Some of the Il Palagio offerings

The rocker’s biodynamic wine, produced on the property, includes a Sangiovese blend with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2007 vintage, and he also produced a 2008 Chianti. Sting recently told a local Toscana newspaper, Corriere della Sera, “If I don’t eat well, I can’t sing.”

I know how he feels, although I don’t think I’m a great singer.

The Sangiovese grape shares a rich culture with the Tuscan people. However, it often doesn’t receive the attention that it deserves. In celebrity status, its place is strictly on the “B-list” for most wine connoisseurs and professionals—though the grape’s reputation seems to be trending up. Sangiovese goes by many nicknames like Morellino, Ciliegolo and Prugnolo Gentile (just to name a few), and it comes in many shapes and forms.  Sangiovese seems to date back to the 16th and 17th centuries, and oenologists suggest that the grape contains DNA from central and southern Italian varietals. In 2004, oenologist Jose Vouillamoz announced that Sangiovese’s genetic “parents” are a local Tuscan varietal called Ciliegiolo and a near extinct varietal from Calabria called Calabrese Montenuovo. For recollected history, though, Sangiovese has lived in Toscana.

Similar to Pinot Noir in many regards, Sangiovese easily mutates, and it’s quite finicky to grow and vinify. These traits have caused this somewhat mysterious grape much trouble, causing producers to misunderstand and mistreat the mercurial Sangiovese. Best known for producing quaffable, thin, pale, rough and acidic red wines, this grape seems to earn its disrespect. When put in the right hands, however, Sangiovese can produce robust, aromatic and smooth wines with great intensity and structure. It’s impossible to speak about Sangiovese without mentioning Chianti, because it’s as the base for Chianti that Sangiovese received its bad reputation. But in the last 20 years, as winemakers have come to privilege quality over quantity, that Chianti has undergone a rehab and now enjoys vastly higher quality levels, which has elevated the status of the varietal.

Sangiovese finds its best expression in the region of Toscana, but the grape isn’t just a grape to the Tuscan people or its winemakers: it’s a symbol of Tuscan history, culture, tradition and livelihood. When I traveled through Toscana as a wine student, I felt the people’s passion for this grape. It’s how they make money; it’s also their hobby, their passion and even their child in some instances. Few varietals own that kind of devotion, and I think that’s worth more than A-list status any day.

This commonplace holds true for the small Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano. Embodying the charm of a traditional town of Toscana, Montepulciano is known for its “big” Sangiovese-based wines and delicious, yet simple, food.

Most of Montepulciano’s traditional dishes encompass fresh, local ingredients—and this combination of locality and seasonality means really spectacular cuisine. However, as much as it’s known for its lamb stew and pasta with rabbit—and Vino Nobile wine—Montepulciano is particularly known for its bread. When searching for a great summer recipe, one dish in particular caught my eye: panzanella. A very easy dish, panzanella combines everyday ingredients—and in doing so, it gets its nickname of “leftover salad” or “bread salad.” Panzanella is mostly made of cubes of bread that are combined with ripe tomatoes, peppers, basil, onions, a touch of mint, olive oil and traditional seasonings. I could see this dish as an accompaniment to a hearty steak on the grill with a delicious glass of any of the region’s wines, especially a nice Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

My interest was also piqued by another traditional Tuscan dish called Ribollita. This dish also focuses on the Ciabatta bread of the region, but it serves as a comfort food and is soaked in bean soup and often topped with freshly squeezed olive oil. I thought it would be perfect on a cold, rainy day, perhaps complemented by a glass of Il Macchione Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a full-bodied wine that would go nicely with such a hearty soup. I’d also add some slow roasted meat to add a little more substance and flavor.

This summer, I sadly don’t have any trips planned. Therefore, I’m traveling to Montepulciano through some traditional recipes and wine in the comfort of my own home. It’s the next best thing to being there.

I value originality, almost above anything else. That’s not to say that I only go for something different. Sometimes a vanilla ice cream cone is exactly what a hot July afternoon calls for. My favorite writer happens to be Ernest Hemingway, whose prose style is considered simple and, his unadorned, quick sentences show that they were written by a trained journalist. Sometimes all I will eat for dinner is a bowl of arugula with lemon vinaigrette. And most Sundays I will wear jeans and a white t-shirt, nearly the simplest of outfits. But, I find originality to be very refreshing—in people, in food, in literature, and in wine lists.

Eric Asimov’s April 1^st The Pour posting “On Generic Wine Lists” came at an appropriate time for me to reflect on an experience I had this past weekend. I went for a glass of wine Friday night with a friend near Columbia University, and I was met with a list of wines by the glass that was marred by being the quintessence of saltine. The list looked a little like this:

Cheap $8

Good $12

Expensive $18

When the waitress came over to take our order, I asked for a little further information. She told me she thought the cheap was Merlot, the good was Malbec, and the expensive was Sangiovese, or something along those lines. I hoped she could clear up the varietals for me, as well as perhaps vintage and even country of origin. I told her I needed a few minutes.

At first, I had been somewhat intrigued by this wine list design. How unusual! How different! I had never seen this anywhere before! But the more I thought about it, the more I had no idea what I wanted. When presented with a wine list with six different Chardonnays by the glass, I often feel completely torn. But this was far worse because they were offering me only three unidentified beverages. I felt I was being forced to make an uninformed choice.

Composing a restaurant’s menu is difficult, so is making a wine list. There are so many choices, so many customers, so many palates, so many restaurants, and so many of them fail. When restaurants make their lists, they have to consider so many questions: Who will the audience be? What price range can we offer wines in? How large do we want the list to be? What is the concept or theme? All things considered, the wine list needs to be at the very least informative, and if it isn’t, the staff should be. Otherwise, the patrons end up feeling like me last Saturday night, and I don’t think that’s a good thing.

In the wake of this last experience on the Upper West Side, I’m wondering about what’s valuable in wine lists. Is it better to go off the beaten path and try to do something wildly creative? Or is it better to play it safe and run the risk of being saltine?

Amazing! Almost immediately, we found one called Catch de Fish, just two blocks away from work. I was slightly disappointed that it was a seafood restaurant because the wine we had was so bold, but I was even more surprised that it was a Thai Seafood fusion restaurant. But as long as it was BYOB, I was sold. We ended up ordering a crab cake with spicy mayo, shrimp tom yum soup, Chilean sea bass with vegetables, and baby back ribs with honey and Thai spices. None of these dishes were a “textbook” pairing with the wine that we brought, but everything was delicious, and the evening turned out to be wonderful.

The experience we had that night really reminded me of Jane’s blog “The Power of Context.” Our wine and food pairings certainly weren’t what one would expect or even choose, but I’ll always remember the night for the good meal and even better company. If you said I could rewind time and make a different, more appropriate choice, I would tell you that I wouldn’t change a thing.

Without a doubt, there is a connection between grape varietal and aroma. You can always expect to find specific scents in specific wines based on their varietals and their blends, but the truth of the matter is what you get from a wine is a very personal matter and changes from both individual person to individual person and estate to estate. As difficult as it is to get ten people to agree on a place to have dinner in New York City that they all like, it’s difficult to get those same people not only to agree on all liking the same wine, but liking the same thing about it. However, as much as it may be difficult for people to agree on how to describe wines, there are qualities we can generally attribute to specific grapes.

The fun thing about wine drinking in the 21st century is that the market understands the concept of individual experience, so you can express yourself any way you want. From saying “it tastes like shoe polish” to “there are notes of tar” is perfectly normal. It’s not that you take a spoon full of shoe polish with your morning coffee and then take a dive in a vat of tar every time you walk pass a “Road Work Ahead” sign, but as our own Christy Canterbury has pointed out, taste is smell so you’re not necessarily tasting but smelling.

In wine tasting as much as everything else, practice makes perfect. If to you a wine tastes like toasted maple leaf, perhaps it does, but maybe you really want to make sure. You might want to practice tasting wine at home with some dried fruit and nuts to help you taste the corresponding flavors of your favorite wines. It is easier to make comparisons if you have both things you’re comparing. Do it enough, and you’ll be able to do it by scent alone. It’s a lot of fun when you can recognize wines by their smell alone—practice at home, give it a shot, and impress your friends at parties.

While smell and taste are highly personal, you can expect some specific flavor profiles with specific varietals. To help you out in your quest to master your next favorite party trick, here are the basic flavors to look for in some popular Italian varietals:

Sangiovese (Toscana): Dried flowers, berries like blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, or strawberry. You’ll find a really nice example in the 2006 Fontodi Chianti Classico.

Nebbiolo (Piemonte): Cherry and other dark fruit (like dried cranberries) or tar and rose petal, but please do not have a wine, tar and rose petal tasting! I would try the De Forville Nebbiolo 2007 or Massolino’s 2004 Barolo for some great aroma and flavor representation.

Nero d’Avola (Sicilia): This is one of my personal favorites. You can find many flavors; look for black cherry, plum, vanilla, tobacco and licorice. My Nero d’Avola go-to since I started at IWM has been il Moro by Valle Dell’Acate. The 2006 is great.

Palagrello Bianco (Campania): Orange blossoms, pears and peaches—grab some juicy pears and peaches and open a bottle of Alois Caiati 2005 or Vestini Campagnano 2004. I’d thrown in a couple of pieces of Reggiano while you’re at it just to complete the experience.

Pigato (white, Liguria): I love this wine! Look for apricot, peach and herbs. Both the 2008 U Baccan by Bruna and the Bisson 2007 are exceptional wines and will help you to understand this varietal.

Cortese (white, Piemonte): This is your Gavi’s varietal. Look for white flowers, white fruit like peaches, pears and apples.  I would give the Ca’ dei Mandorli a shot, a wine that dips under the radar but really shows what Cortese is about.

And for those of you who have mastered the art of the nose, what are your favorite scentastic wines? What profiles can you detect and in conjunction with which varietals?

Daughter of wine legend Gianfranco Soldera, Monica Soldera has been raised with the heart and soul of Toscana. The Soldera family’s home sits in the middle of the idyllic Case Basse estate in Montalcino, a spot as known for Monica’s father’s Sangiovese Brunello as her mother’s rose garden. After obtaining a degree in Economics, Monica received a Master’s Degree in Communications from Bocconi University and pursued a career in marketing in the food industry until she was lured from Milan back to her family home. These days, Monica and her husband both work at the vineyard, alongside her parents, with her four children nearby. Wine is a family affair, and what a glorious affair it is at Soldera.

1. What one aspect of Italian culture did you witness in NY that made you feel at home?

New York is always fascinating to me! One reason is that I spent part of my honeymoon here many years ago. I always feel at home in New York; I appreciate the hospitality and also the smiles I see on many faces; I feel safe. Of course, I also experienced the signs of the economic difficulties, but at the same time I felt a lot of hope. Everybody seems to do his or her best for getting over the crisis.

2. Where did you eat in New York and what were some of your favorite dishes?

I eat in different restaurants—all of them great restaurants with high level of quality not only in food but also in service. The wines lists were amazing and I drank so many very nice wines. I met sommeliers with high professionalism. I appreciate all the restaurants where I eat, the fact that each of them was different in their style of cooking and the dishes they offer to guests. I also enjoyed the differences in the places, like the different architectural style.

3. What one thing that you can’t fit into your suitcase would you most like to bring home from New York to Toscana?

The smiling faces of the customers tasting our wines!

4. What is your best (or first) memory of Sergio Esposito?

Sergio has always surprised me for his knowledge and passion for fine wines. In addition, he deeply expresses the positive, sweet soul of people from South Italy. Most of all, I appreciate his respect and admiration for my father.

5. What one story from your trip would put a smile on your father’s face?

The congratulations everybody expressed to me for the greatness of the 2002 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino, its finesse and elegance, and its Sangiovese purity.