Wine and Pizza

A match made in foodie heaven

It’s an Italian classic. Americans love it. You love it. I love it. Brick-oven, thin crust and showing that perfect ratio of tangy tomato sauce to gooey fresh mozzarella: everyone loves pizza.

You can have it anyway you want it, and I’ve tried them all: quattro formaggi, wild mushroom, meat lover’s, white pizza and vegetable. I search out variations of the doughy, crusty delight, but I never stray too far away from my regular slice—or pie—for too long. Thin crust, New York-style pizza remains my first choice—a classic!

Pizza is an American dietary staple, though its roots are in Neapolitan cuisine, and though their regional takes on the dish are part of the pizza excitement. There’s New York Style, sure, but there’s also deep-dish Chicago-style and Hawaiian (topped with pineapple and ham). There’s Cajun pizza and nouvelle pizza. There’s gluten-free pizza, and raw foodie pizza approximations. There seem to be infinite variations to the flat-bread-with-sauce-cheese-and-topping theme.

America boasts more than 69,000 pizzerias, and we consume nearly three billion pizza pies per year, according to research by marketing firm Blumenfeld and Associates. I’ve seen statistics state that we even eat 100 acres of pizza per day, and I could believe it. A “go-to” food, pizza’s easy, affordable and it satiates.

Somehow, in all my years of eating pizza, I never thought of pairing wine with it. Then I read an article by Wine Spectator’s Kim Marcus a few years ago on pairing pizza and wine (the article’s sadly not available online). I was astonished. Why didn’t I ever think of seeking out a wine to complement my pizza? The duo seemed like such a no-brainer that I felt like I’d had a small, but important, epiphany. Since then, I seem to go back to Pinot Noir, preferably an Oregonian one, but I know there’s more.

Once I started to consider the options, I felt stunned by their number. Tomato sauce is usually rich in flavor, and there are plenty of great wines to match. A Chianti Classico, a spicy Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and most Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux-blends (the herbaceous Cabernet Franc can match up to the oregano and other herbs in most pizza, while Merlot will complement the subtle fruitiness of the tomato) are all contenders. Likewise, a rich, round Dolcetto that’s full of black cherries, earth, basil and supple tannins will make almost any style of pizza sing. If you prefer white, you may want a Trebbiano or crisper white from Veneto or Friuli. The choice is yours—and mine.

I can’t wait to find my next new pizza. I’m always happy with my classic, New York-style, but as with wine, you can’t always just stick to one.

Finding a Summer Red in Barbera

Finding a Summer Red in Barbera: a wine the people know best

As we slide into the warm belly of the summer, I’m searching for a good summer wine. These hot days call for a picnic in the park, a day at the beach, or a clambake with friends—and wines whose friendly dispositions don’t require reflection, intellect or patience. I want no brooding Barolo or demanding Dolcetto. I want an easy-going bottle whose refreshing zing will take the sting out of the sun, and whose happy palate will make summer food sing.

And yet, there’s a rub. I’m not a huge fan of white wines. I get the beauty of the white, intellectually; I can appreciate the white wine’s crisp lines, elegant layers, and wafts of almond, citrus, lily and salt. But I’m not always in the mood for white, and to be honest, I’m an unapologetic carnivore. Enter Barbera, a red and one of the best underdog wines (and I do love underdogs).

A grape of astounding flexibility and breadth, Barbera is one of the two most planted red wine varieties in Italy (the other is Sangiovese). Barbera grows throughout Italy, but mostly in Piemonte, where it appears in eleven DOC designated areas. Barbera earned the nickname “the people’s wine” because of its high popularity and historically low cost. Low in tannins but very high in acidity, Barbera is a fruit-happy ruby-red wine. Barbera’s structure comes from its tangy acidity; therefore, Barbera complements a wide range of summer food, though it stands up especially well with grilled steak—yummy, yummy hot-off-the-grill, sizzling and delightful steak. An added bonus, Barbera stands on the value-conscious side of the aisle.

A red with jaunty acidity, lots of flavor,and low cost that complements meat? I’m all in.

The Wall Street Journal’s Lettie Teague puts the wine in perspective: “Barbera has always been considered a bit of a consolation drink. It’s the wine most drinkers turn to while waiting for the region’s greater wines to mature—or one’s fortunes to improve. And yet Barbera at its best is charming and graceful.” The people have spoken, and they have said, “Barbera.”

This weekend, I’m lucky to be heading to Fire Island where the sun, the sand, the salt, a gorgeous patio and a fabulous grill await me. I’m not packing much, but I’m definitely bringing a couple of bottles of Barbera, perhaps the Hilberg Barbera d’Alba Per Allesandra. It’ll go great with my vintage Norma Kamali bathing suit and my rack of lamb.

Nero d’Avola

Finding a past in Sicilian wine

Of partial Sicilian decent, I’ve always been fascinated with the southernmost part of Italy’s boot. My grandfather, Don Pasquale, was born in America, but his father and family, the Marinos (yes, like the famous Italian ices), have their roots in Sicily. My grandfather’s extended family came to America, and while some moved down south, the rest remained in New York City—in the Bronx to be exact. My grandfather served in World War II, met my grandmother in England, and five children later, the rest is history.

Soon, I’ll be journeying to Sicilia and to the rest of Italy. In the meantime, I’m exploring Sicilia right here at home via the region’s most important red grape, and varietal wine: Nero d’Avola. Whenever I scan a wine list or find myself in an interesting wine shop, I look for Nero. Nero is fast becoming a wine that I know I’ll enjoy. Often compared to Shiraz, it’s dark and full of plums, peppers and silky tannins. Even more wonderful, it’s always modestly priced and it’s an easy fit with most dishes. Moreover, this varietal holds a special connection for me. I recently grabbed two glasses of Nero at nearby NYC wine bar, Bar Veloce, and tried one of IWM’s own Nero-Merlot blends, Buceci. It was delicious, and drinking it, I dreamed of Sicilia, the lands as I imagine them, and my ancestors.

My grandfather passed away in 1998, but his love of wine lingers. I feel fortunate that he took the time to infuse me with his love of wine; it’s something I’ve held onto until this day. My grandfather and I were close, so I feel lucky that there’s still some family in Sicilia, whom I never really got to know because I grew up in New York. One day soon I’ll search for my Marinos, sit down with them over some granitas, or other Sicilian dishes, and some glasses of smooth Nero d’Avola. We can drink, eat, and catch up. It’s been awhile.

I’m going to go on exploring more wines, but I’ll always make sure I throw Nero d’Avola in the mix, for grandpa. It reminds me of him and of my roots.

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