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A look back at the week that was
On a week like this one, how could we not tip our glasses to Valentine’s Day? Wednesday, John Camacho Vidal gave us a history lesson of the holiday–which included its roots in Lupercalia, traditionally celebrated today! On Monday, one writer suggested that being single on Valentine’s Day is just another reason to celebrate it. On Tuesday, we enjoyed a look at a delicious under $20 Piemonte white from our newest contributor, Emery. And yesterday, Francesco Vigorito started a multi-part series on building an extraordinary cellar of Italian wine.
Our experts also let love be their guides. David Gwo showered the négociant estate Bouchard Père et Fils with some serious love for two of its Grand Crus. Both of our other experts went for Barolo. Garrett Kowalsky picked a pair of Barolos from two “S” estates, Scavino and Scarzello, while Robin Kelley O’Connos chose two undisputed heavyweights, Aldo Conterno and Vietti.
We wish you and yours a happy Valentine’s Day, a joyous Galentine’s Day, and a terrific Lupercalia. Whatever you celebrate, enjoy some wine. That’s what the Romans do.
Celebrating Thanksgiving in Italy
Riding shotgun in an old truck with Marco Sassetti, general manager of the Il Palazzone estate on one late November afternoon, I was privy to a conversation between him and an old friend.
“Dove vai?” his friend asked, shouting across the narrow dirt road. Where are you going?
“Festa del tacchino!” Marco responded with a chuckle, and even I with my limited English had to laugh. What else would an Italian call Thanksgiving but the “Turkey feast”?
It’s tough to be an ex-pat on national holidays. In late November 2011, I was in Montalcino, in Tuscany, where I lived for just short of two months stretching from just before Halloween to early December. I had been staying at this ramshackle seventeenth-century villa rented by Lauren Cicione, an Italian-American who’d rented it and then unexpectedly found herself working in Piedmont, and I got to experience the glory of the tiny town of Montalcino as late fall crept towards winter. I watched the leaves on the trees and on the vines turn gold and fall off; I felt the air turn crisp and then cold.
National holidays elicit nostalgia. The fourth Thursday in November creeps up on the calendar, and just about every American will find his or her tongue twitching for cranberries. There are no cranberries in Italy. Cranberries are a purely American thing. Turkeys originated in Northern America, but while they are flightless birds, they have managed to make the leap to Europe. Still, they are strange to Italians. Italians are not big on turkey, and, really, it’s difficult to make an argument about why they should be. Turkey, removed from the warm fuzzy feelings and the accouterments has little to recommend it. Thanksgiving celebrates the mythic roots of America, after all. How could it be anything but foreign to Italy?
The year I was in Italy, Thanksgiving came and went—it was just another work day for Italians, after all, but on the following Saturday, Lauren pulled together a Thanksgiving feast for about three ex-pat Americans and a sprawling company of twenty or so Europeans, most Italians. The table groaned under a huge toddler-sized turkey, sides both traditional (stuffing, green beans, carrots, mashed potatoes, gravy) and not (pasta, risotto, sautéed wild mushrooms, polenta). There was copious wine, mostly Brunello, as you’d expect, and the Italians drank freely—I think “tacchino” is an acquired taste. There were pies too; they looked and tasted a bit like they’d passed through a long game of recipe telephone on the way to their creation. I was thankful for it all.
As this Thanksgiving approaches, I find myself thinking of that festa di tacchino, the ragtag bunch of people gathered at a villa perched on the side of hill trying to recreate a meal that was alien to most of them. We spoke no fewer than five languages at that table, but it didn’t really matter. The company was gracious, the food was abundant, the wine was excellent, and we were united in gratitude.
A look back at the week that was
This week began with the original wine teaching tool–the Pythagorean Cup. Is it a trick? Is it a treat? It’s certainly ancient and interesting. Read about it here, and learn how to make your own! The week ended with something else you can make–a recipe for Osso Buco, winter’s signature dish. In between, Jessica Catelli offered a sentimental take on a wine to enjoy all year long, the 2011 La Sala Chianti Classico. And best of all, David Bertot offered a travelogue of his time in Liguria, with plenty of pictures of the Italian Riviera!
In a rare departure, all of our experts gravitated to French wines. Playing well known against the under-the-radar estates, Garrett Kowalsky offered two picks from Louis Jadot on Monday, and on Thursday, he picked a pair from Chandon de Briailles. Robin Kelley O’Connor selected two very classic Champagnes to make your celebrations bright, Louis Roederer Crystal and Billecart-Salmon Blanc des Blancs Brut NV. And David Gwo experienced a wine epiphany and chose two lovely wines from Domaine Latour to explain it.
Cheers to you and your wine, and making the very best out of whatever this fall hands you!keep looking »