Andrew Jefford writes in the Decanter titled “Understanding Young Palates” that “Palate acuity peaks when we are eleven; after that, it is a long, slow slide downhill. Older wine-tasters don’t like to admit it, but their senses are never as acute as they were in younger years. Age’s trump card is experience and memory: you can fit things into a context younger tasters don’t have, and dredge the memory bank for sensorial similitudes.”  However, while age is relative, and while there is a difference between actually young palates and figuratively young palates, there’s no question that all palates require a gentle education.

It’s a truism that Americans in general have very young palates, hence the oceans of cheap white and pink wines (notice I did not say Rosé) that unfortunately fill grocery stores nationwide.  Case in point, Pinot Grigio is the number one Italian import into the United States.  Can Pinot Grigio be delicious when produced by the right hands?  Of course it can.  Can it achieve greatness when designed to have residual sugar, low acid, and a $10 price tag for a beginner American palate? That, however, is unlikely (though we’ve got one). And thus the oceans of Pinot Grigio being drunk by Americans may not be very bad (it’s tough to find a really bad Pinot Grigio, as this article points out), but it’s not necessarily very good either.

I recognize there is a starting point for everyone.  I know I didn’t start off with Giacomo Conterno Monfortino, or Grand Cru Burgundy, but after some education, experimentation, and fun, sometimes expensive, exploration, I now enjoy a rich, satisfying wine experience.  I remember in the fall of 2001 when I was in engineering school I sneaked behind my advisor’s back to take Wine Technology.  The class kicked off with Rieslings and finished with six week’s worth of French wines.  My only wine experience had been at family parties.  I had a very young, very sweet inclined palate.  That class, ten years and a few thousand different tastes later, I now have not only a passion for wine, but a solid career in it.

Although now in my thirties, my palate acuity is past its peak, I must agree with Jefford that my experiences, findings, and explorations have solidified my “memory bank’s sensorial similitudes.”  I have faith that we Americans in general, being the number one consumer of wine in the world by volume, will evolve within the next generation (or two) into a more polished, more discerning market overall.  New Yorkers have an almost unfair advantage when it comes to wine access, as New York is a wonderful wine city.  On any given day there is a wonderful wine tasting event (especially on Saturdays in our own Studio del Gusto).  It is also home to some of the Western hemisphere’s most discerning and vast wine lists.  Regardless of your age or wine level, I encourage all to constantly learn, explore and, most importantly, enjoy wine.

Grower Champagne, also known as “farmer fiz,” can be identified by the letters R.M on the back label (R.M = Récoltant-Manipulant) noting that these farmers grow and produce Champagne from grapes grown only on their own estate. Many of the most famed Champagne houses (Moët, Mumm, and Bollinger to name but a few) purchase the majority of their grapes from farmers throughout the region and do not express a specific sense of place within Champagne. Although the bubbly wines are what make these farmers famous, it is the still wines that I find to be the most intriguing and mysterious. These bottles can be rather difficult to find, so when you do stumble across a good bottle, you can bet your sweet bippy that it will be a special experience.

For me, the highlights of the evening were the 1996 Andre Beaufort Ambonnay Grand Cru and the 2008 Egly Ouriet Ambonnay Rouge “Cuvée des Grands Cotes” (yes, they do make red wine in Champagne). As expected, the 1996 Beaufort was marvelous, but it was the young red Grand Cru that especially sparked my interest. Located in the small village of Ambonnay, Francis Egly owns approximately a mere 8 hectares of vineyards, the majority of which are in Ambonnay.  All of the vineyards are classified as Grand Cru and have the reputation for producing some of the best Pinot Noir based Champagnes, and in this case incredible stand-alone Pinot!  Most of the vines average between 30-50 years of age, which gives the wines gorgeous concentration and depth. Tasted blind, this Champagne had a nose that would have taken me to Grand Cru Burgundy; aromas of wild strawberry, sweet smoke, black cherry and earth rose from the glass, teasing my senses. Without getting too mushy, I will just tell you that it was a beautiful wine that came close to out-shining fellow Champagne superstars.

The menu was creatively paired showcasing traditional Cantonese preparations and a handful of exotic ingredients. Chilled abalone and sea blubber (otherwise known as jellyfish) were paired with Chartogne Taillet’s Blanc de Noirs, deep fried prawn coated with salted egg yolk with Ulysse Collin Extra Brut NV (a Jacques Selosse disciple), roasted goose webs Chiu–Chow style with the 2008 Egly Ouriet Ambonnay Rouge and finally “shark’s fin crystal extravagance” with the 1996 Andre Beaufort Ambonnay for dessert. I cannot properly describe this dessert, so I will let the picture speak for itself.

Hong Kong is full of constant surprises that make eating and drinking in this city always thrilling. It is inspiring how the community in Hong Kong embraces the celebration of wine and food no matter the form or flavor. It is an exciting time to be a part of the wine movement in Hong Kong, and I look forward to seeing further progression and expansion in the wine market. Grower Champagne wines have only recently made their entrance in Hong Kong and I am excited to see that will be next.

A lobster roll from "Lunch" on the Montauk Highway.

I was out with some colleagues this past weekend when we decided to take a late-night pit-stop at a local crab shack for some lobster rolls.  I’ve been hearing quite a bit about these lobster rolls lately and, while I don’t necessarily fancy them all the time, thought it’d be an appetizing after-hour snack.

Simply prepared with four ounces of lobster, a mix of claw, knuckle and often tail, and then generously slapped on a buttered, usually toasted, soft white roll, lobster rolls seem to be the new cool comfort food of summer 2011. As with any great seafood salad, the secret in the lobster roll’s yummy center is not to use too much mayo and to gently combine the meat some chopped celery, chives, and fresh herbs.  Lettuce is optional.

Now the debate-inspiring dilemma: What is the proper wine pairing? Recently, Dr. Vino challenged his readers to come up with a wine that would complement–and not overwhelm–the roll. He asks, “So, even if there’s no wine on the menu at most clam shacks, the wine geek’s mind wanders…which wine would you pair with a lobster roll? Or is it…impossible?!?”

I’ve spent a lot of time in restaurants working with guests to find a great wine to pair with their delicious food, as well as finding my own matches for restaurant food with dinner companions, and I’ve realized that everyone has different preferences.  What I consider to be a harmonious match might not be the right fit for anyone other than myself.  In recognition of this experience I’ve decided to dodge the daunting responsibility of declaring a perfect lobster roll pairing all together.  Instead, I’ve selected a few wines for everyone to try out, and then I have to ask you: what’s everyone else drinking with their lobster this summer?

Buon Appetito and here are my wine choices below:

Ravento I Blanc Cava Brut Rose De nit 2008 

La Roncaia Friulano 2007

Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Rio Negro Barda 2010

Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Gruyaches 2009

This past week I picked up a bottle from our store—Domenico Clerico Dolcetto Visadi. The producer is one of the best Barolo makers alive, and the wine derives from the deliciously food friendly Dolcetto grape.  I decided that this would be the centerpiece to meal I was putting together that evening, and for under $20 how could I refuse?

Surprisingly, the Domenico Clerico 2008 Dolcetto Vsadii was far more than a structure of sweet fruit and supple acidity. I found there was a particularly noticeable tannic structure that complemented my meal of tomato basil over Fusilli pasta and seasoned beef. The blending of high notes from red fresh cherries, rose, pomegranate, and plum blended incredibly with my sautéed mushrooms, olive oil, and garlic. Although my Montreal seasoning wasn’t traditionally Italian, I found Clerico’s Dolcetto production held with this slight twist. The tannic structure provided greater complexity and range to what is typical with a less full-bodied Dolcetto. Without a doubt, the acidity of this wine ultimately made the meal. I would recommend putting this bottling in your arsenal of solid beats for nights in. The meal reinforced that the Dolcetto, or “little sweet one,” is a rewardingly approachable food friendly wine.

When you want build a meal around Italian flavors but need a wine that can handle a few alternative deviations, understand that Domenico Clerico’s slightly modernist Dolcetto wine will allow you to take more international flavor risks without forcing your meal off of the Italian boot. And the pride of announcing that it’s under $20 a bottle only adds to the sweetness.

Paolo Bea has a reputation for his natural winemaking, and he does wonders with this predominantly Sangiovese wine (there’s also Montepulciano and Sagrantino).  It’s awesome to come across a Bea wine at such an affordable price—under $35—with Sagrantino as one of the varietals in the blend.   We enjoyed the wild berries, sweet spices and floral notes the wine had to offer, and it went down quite easy and complemented antipasto exquisitely.

We quickly moved on to our next wine, Il Macchione’s Vino Nobile Riserva 2001. This wine is spectacular for the price—just over $55.  It’s a Riserva, which I love, and has nine years of age, which gives it some depth and complexity.  It exhibited dark plum, oak and went down silky smooth.  I found myself laughing along with my friends and thinking that was turning out to be a great way to start off the weekend.

Two bottles down and we were off to the second destination of the night.  We went to a jazz club in the West Village, and wanting to continue my wine kick, I ordered something called “Cherry Wine.”  I figured it was wine made from cherries, or at least I was hoping so—and that it wasn’t a cheaply vinified wine with some cherry flavoring.  Feeling bold, I took my chances and ordered.  It was great! Very sweet, it tasted just like rich dark red cherry. I don’t think it’s possible to drink more than 6 oz of this wine in a night, but it was a nice change. It could’ve done well with a cheese plate and a savory or sweet dessert.  This wine is wonderful for diverse pairings.

As the night went on, I got a little cocky and decided to order a Cabernet at one of my favorite dive bars on Jones St.  My senses being much more subdued at this point of the night helped me get half way through this awful glass of Cabernet, but then realized that it tasted solely of candy corn.  At first, given its only a week after Halloween, I thought this was interesting and a good thing.  A couple more sips of the sickly sweet yet drab wine, and I called it quits.  Yuck!

I suppose the moral of the story is this: if you start out with great wine, it’s not a good idea to end with a bad one. No matter how tipsy you are, if you know wine well, you’ll know the difference. I should have had a water—or a tequila.

Sometime around noon staff lunch is called, served family style in our Studio del Gusto, and we scramble downstairs in shifts to partake. We troupe up in scattered shifts. The espresso machine hums. Phones ring.

Momentum builds as the afternoon deepens. Constant streams of conversations abound as we process orders, organize campaigns, and make impossible requests of our acquisitions department. The store is also in full swing, and a bottle is selected for patrons to taste as they browse. One or another of us drops downstairs to meet a client, confer with our chef, visit the cellar or speak to our shipping department. A happy bustle reigns.

The crescendo approaches as evening approaches. Shipping deadlines are met, allocations made, and the vintage room is prepared for the night’s event. Wines and glasses are arrayed, appetizer courses laid out, bottles opened and some are decanted. The guests arrive, speeches are made, and many a glass of wine is tasted, and n atmosphere of conviviality is achieved. Occasionally, festivities carry on, and celebrities are gently removed from the chandeliers.

Upstairs the work continues. The phone calls slow down and often there are new wines to try. Merits and shortcomings are discussed, opinions solicited, and while the loose ends are tied, the homeward-bound workers begin to file out. Eventually it dwindles to the last two or three, staying to provide coverage for our west coast clients, or just going the extra mile, because it’s expected of us.

To my thinking, the terrior of IWM is as magical as the slopes of Piemonte, the sun slanting on the Valle d’Aosta, or the breeze from the Adriatic Sea. We work hard to create the “sense of place” you experience in every interaction with us, and above everything else, we stand behind what we do.

In choosing a white wine, we need to think about a wine with a decent alcohol percentage and a body full enough to carry the weight of the duck. We also need some acidity to balance the fat of the breast and a fresh mineral character to cut the duck and lift the flavors of the veggies. My suggestion would have to be a white from Alsace or a special white from Umbria.

Alsace is, as all wine aficionados know, a region in Northeast of France bordering the Rhine River and western Germany where the Vosges Mountains to the east create a rain shadow effect that turns what would be a cool rainy area into one of France’s driest and warmest regions. The warmth and sunshine allow the grapes to ripen fully, and the granite and schist soils contribute the wines’ complexity, mineral character, and structure. Alsatian Pinot Gris have a spicy, peachy and mineral profile, and they have an oily texture with just enough acid to keep it fresh. Put this wine with the duck and you’ve got yourself a pairing that doesn’t overpower but allows both the flavors of the food and the wine to sing.

If I wanted an Italian white, I would go with the 2008 Paolo Bea Santa Chiara. This wine is amber color and has these beautiful citrus rind flavors that make your mouth water. Due to the extended maceration on the skins, the wine contains a little bit of tannin and more body, so it complements the protein and fat in the duck. To top it off, this wine has a beautiful freshness that carries all the flavors through to the mouthwatering finish. It’s spectacular white from Umbria, from a classy producer loaded with tradition and personality.

Of course, there are lots of other whites that will happily dance with meat. You want to keep in mind the basic principles that make these wines work: a higher percentage of alcohol, a fuller body, bouncy acidity, and a weighty taste profile. A sprinkling of tannins won’t hurt either. Rules are meant to be broken—what are your favorite wine rebellions?
(Photograph by Alamy comes courtesy of The Telegraph.)

photo credit: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/france/6950685/Insiders-guide-to-France-Alsace.html

It’s autumn, and I’m drawn to rustic harvest treats.  Apple cider, salted caramels, and pumpkin pie are all seasonal staples, but this year I’m obsessively drawn to butternut squash filled homemade pasta—specifically Agnolotti.  Sometimes after working nightly events in the IWM studio, we’re lucky enough to score some leftover pasta from the night’s celebration.  Alberto is our in-house pasta-making Sous-Chef, and his works are always delicate pasta pods of perfection.  I recently took home a large container of butternut squash pasta goodness and have been eating it for every meal for the past week. I’m delighted in this perk.

Knowing that I had a new wine to try, the Sartarelli 2008 Verdicchio Tralivio, I chose to make as its complement butternut squash Agnolotti with sage, butter and amaretto sauce. I decided that would pair the Verdocchio and the Agnolotti, even though the pairing was sure to be unusual and quite possibly a terrible one.  I like to live dangerously, at least in terms of gastronomy.

Luckily, I was wrong, and I thoroughly enjoyed my fall favorite with the luscious Verdicchio from Le Marche. Under $25, the wine was surprising citrusy on the nose, and it showed bright acidity in juxtaposition with a velvety smoothness with notes of apricot and nuts. It was a delicious, very odd mix of flavors and textures, which is the exact reason it was such a great pairing for my pasta. The acid and citrus notes cut right through each bite, refreshing my palate and enhancing the buttery, creaminess of the pasta itself.  I didn’t expect a success, yet I had one, however serendipitously.

Previous Go-to-Wines:

Castello Fageto’s 2008 Rosso Piceno

2008 Girlan Sauvignon  “Indra”

Often, we get pretty close with our clients—after all, we virtually live in their cellars. For example, I had one of my clients call me the other day to ask for my help choosing a wine for a big date that he had planned. With him on the phone, I went to the restaurant’s website and took a look at the wine list and walked him through it. It was an Italian restaurant, so the wine list was broken up by region, and we went through and I pointed out certain wines that I recommended with some talking points. I told him which ones were good values and what kind of food they would complement. This way he could choose the wine that best matched what they were both eating, feel confident in his decision, and impress his date.

I also had a lot of fun helping a client who was looking for wines from 2006, his son’s birth year. He wanted to find wines that would age long enough to open up and celebrate on his son’s 21^st birthday. We ended up choosing a mixed case of several different bottles so that they could open up some the year of his son’s birth, and others after his birthday passed. It was such an honor to help pick these selections out because I knew how much it meant to the client and how much trust he had in me. I hope that in 17 years they will enjoy the wines to the fullest.

These are just some of the ways that I help my clients throughout the day. My work really takes the shape of my clients’ needs. That’s what keeps it interesting and personal; I get to know people on a deep level and understand what wine means to them. And I get to go home happy that on some invisible level, I’m there with my clients, sharing in their best memories.

Perhaps, this is why I am looking forward to October 30^th when I’ll host an event that will bring people face-to-face, or perhaps mask-to-mask (what with the Halloween weekend), in a tasting of dessert wines and distillates. The event will be called “After Ate,” and it marks both my first Halloween in NYC and my first tasting with Italian Wine Merchants.

Although I won’t be adorned in a costume, I’m dishing out plenty of treats, and only humorous tricks. For example, I’m looking forward to giving a combination of chocolate cake, a sweet biscotti and a taste of lush, fruity Brachetto d’Acqui. I’ve found that often aperitifs and dessert wines don’t get their just desserts—and that’s just a tragedy. Some of my most seductive wine and food experiences have come from the sensual combinations of creams, fruits, and sweet liquor.

It being Halloween, I’ve also got a couple tricks up my sleeve: a premium citrus and a barrique aged Grappa to keep you from feeling too delicate. Polio Grappa, again, underappreciated, is always a humorous experience for me. Its overblown pungency reminds me of late night laughter and good humor. Appreciated best in moderation, I believe we should take a second look at both these grand-finales and reacquaint ourselves with the pleasures of what is to follow “after ate.”