Dispatches from Hong Kong

chatting with Chef Harlan Goldstein

Harlan Goldstein

Entrepreneur and “chef to the rich and famous.” Harlan Goldstein is one of Hong Kong’s most famous culinary celebrities. With a string of successful restaurants and a larger than life attitude that springs from his roots in New York’s Lower East Side, Harlan Goldstein has become a Hong Kong personality as well as a chef.

Harlan’s newest restaurant, GOLD by Harlan Goldstein, is due to open in November.

What most excites you most about opening your new restaurant GOLD?

I’ve laid low for the last 2.5 years and have found a perfect location including an al fresco terrace. The new venue is more in line with my personality as a restaurateur. In particular, it’s a re-branding opportunity for me.

In eighteen years in Hong Kong, what are the biggest lessons you’ve learned?

Serve quality, recognize your customers, take care of your staff and stay consistent in what you do.

How has HK’s wine-and-dine scene changed since you opened your last restaurant, Tuscany by H, five years ago?

Once the import tax on wine was removed, restaurateurs were then able to sell wines at a fair price and increase turnover of their wines. The incredibly high number of wine suppliers has helped make this possible for us.

How does your understanding of Hong Kong taste influence your menu?

I’ve learned to stay away from flavors that are too strong, like over-reduced sauces that may seem salty to local palates. I can capture a bigger audience by using natural, clean and unique products from excellent sources and emphasize their freshness.

What would your last meal be?

Thai minced chicken salad with lettuce leaves with a local Singha beer from Thailand.

Go-To-Wine Tuesday

2008 Girlan Sauvignon

Go-To-Wine Tuesday: 2008 Girlan Sauvignon

One day late, another installment of our value wine series, “Go-To-Wine Tuesday.” Today’s selection is a Sauvignon Blanc by Girlan.

If I were to describe myself in one word, I would say that I am an “organoleptophile.” I am absolutely fascinated by aromas, flavors, textures, sights and sounds; this is probably the reason why I got involved in wine. Long before I discovered my passion for wine, I was deeply passionate about food, and still to this day I look for excuses to pair the two together because of the sensory adventure behind every sip and bite.

The wine featured today is the 2008 Girlan Sauvignon “Indra” from Trentino Alto-Adige. Believe it or not Sauvignon Blanc is actually one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, the other parent being Cabernet Franc. If you taste wines made from these varieties, you will notice some revealing characteristics; they all tend to throw greenish, bell-peppery, and herbal aromas that come from a chemical class called methoxy pyrazines. These aromas were definitely apparent in the Girlan Sauvignon. Superbly aromatic displaying aromas and flavors of elderflower and ripe grapefruit, this Sauvignon is ripe on the palate, full and very fresh; it’s a beautiful example of Italian Sauvignon. And at under $18, it’s an undisputable value.

Now for the fun part. Tangy, creamy goat cheese is a perfect match for a zippy Sauvignon. The fresh acidity in the Sauvignon complements the tangy goat cheese and does a nice job of cleansing the palate. I picked up a couple of logs of goat cheese at the Union Square Green Market from a cheese place called Lynnhaven Goat Milk Cheese. They have a wonderful assortment of cheese, yogurt and a true passion for what they do.

When I got home, I made a simple preparation. I took some endive leaves, spread the herbed goat cheese, and topped it up with some minced pieces of fried pancetta to create a beautiful little canapé that would meld seamlessly with this Sauvignon. The endive added a little crunch and pleasant bitterness to the goat cheese, and the pancetta contributed some salty, meaty and fatty flavors. The aromatics of the herbed cheese were perfectly in balance with the aromatic Sauvignon. The wine had enough body to stand up to the pancetta, while the acid contrasted the creaminess and cleaned the palate in preparation for the next bite. Pair with friends and family and you’ve got yourself an organoleptic experience that is inexpensive, delicious and well remembered.

Previous Go-to-WinesCastello Fageto’s 2008 Rosso Piceno

photo credits: photo 1 http://www.theworldwidewine.com, photo 2, http://www.lynnhavennubians.com/

A View from a Tasting

France vs. Italy

This past Saturday we had a terrific tasting event at our Studio del Gusto: France vs. Italy. Since as far back as I can remember, these two countries have been forced to measure up in almost everything—empire, architecture, art, fashion, soccer and, of course, food and wine.

On Saturday, wine was clearly the competition at hand. However, because it wouldn’t be fair to designate a winner from such a small selection of wine, what we experienced on Saturday was less a contest than it was a study. We paired up a French wine with an Italian wine for a total of four pairs, or eight wines. I then helped our guests compare each French and Italian wine to each other. What follows are my notes from last Saturday’s tasting.

Fantinel NV Prosecco Brut Extra Dry vs. Bereche NV Brut Reserve

Although the Bereche is a lovely NV Champagne with good acidity, the genteel simplicity of the Fantinel took the lead (by a single vote) as an ideal wine for aperitivo and desserts. However, I have to be honest here and acknowledge that I’ve had many exceptional Italian sparklers, and the world of sparkling wines unquestionably belongs to the French.

Aldo Conterno 2006 Chardonnay Bussiador vs Domaine Latour Giraud 2006 Mersault Les Narvaux

Aldo’s Chardonnay is a wonderful representation of the grape, and our guests chose it for its elegant oak, notes of vanilla and soft minerality, but the preferred wine here was the smooth Meursault by Giraud, an outstanding white burgundy with a delicate bouquet and a lighter body than the Bussiador.

Canalicchio-Franco Pacenti 2004 Brunello di Montalcino vs. Chateau Haut Bages 2004

Liberal

This was a tough choice for many because the wines were not identical. However, our guests had fun comparing the legendary Bordeaux to the legendary Brunello. This particular Brunello happens to have a slightly lighter body than most, yet it still maintains its rich flavors. The Haut Bages, a 5^th growth Bordeaux, was a smooth and easy drinking wine that’s ideal for everyday. There was some debate, but the Brunello was the preferred wine here. We should keep in mind that we’re talking about a 5^th growth Bordeaux and not let the victory go to our head.

Giacomo Conterno 2005 Barolo Cascina Francia vs. Domaine de Montille 2005 Volnay Le Mitans 1er Cru

The Gran Finale! There was no instant decision on these two incredible wines. Given that both wines could use a few more years, I was sure to give enough the air so that we could enjoy the fruit, silkiness and elegance of both of these wines. Being a huge Conterno fan, I hoped that the group would lean toward that, but it was an even split. Both of these beauties were superb!

Ultimately, it was an even game, which makes sense because the real winners of the tasting were the tasters themselves. When the wine—and the company—are good, there are no losers, only a big pile of win.

Notes from Hong Kong

a chat and some wine with expat Danilo Nicoletti

Editor’s note: We’ll be featuring conversations with the wine wheelers, dealers, movers, makers and shakers both here in the US and abroad. Today, we’re lucky to have Josh Rubenstein from IWM HK sit in conversation with one of Hong Kong dining’s most influential Italians, Danilo Nicoletti.

Danilo Nicoletti, General Manager of 8 1/2 (Otto e Mezzo) photo courtesy of: otto-e-mezzo.com

Danilo Nicoletti is General Manager of 8 1/2 (Otto e Mezzo, one of Hong Kong’s premier Italian restaurants. Originally from Ventimiglia in Liguria, Italy, Danilo’s prior engagements at Domani and Ritz Carlton’s Toscana have made him an institution in Hong Kong fine dining. Moreover, Danilo has been instrumental in bringing wines from iconic Italian producers like Radikon, Gravner and Bea to his wine list. Danilo is without a doubt a leader in the HK Italian wine community.

What turned you on to a career in food and wine?

My father and uncle ran a small family restaurant in Ventimiglia, so it has always been a part of my life. I attended school for maitre d’ training and service management, which also helped me to learn English and French.

What do you love about your job?

I love the opportunity to “change the weather.” We can always manipulate our space and offerings so that every experience at 8 1/2 is a new and memorable experience. It can be a new dish, artisan wine or serve—or we may add new art to the décor. I love being on the scene every day

What to your thinking makes a wine program great?

It’s like making a great salad. You always need your greens and can add interesting varieties of tomatoes and unique surprises like papaya. Having the right selection in the best price points—for me it’s $600 – $1500 HKD ($75 – $200 USD)—will make the program most attractive.

How would you describe the Hong Kong wine scene to readers abroad?

Hong Kong is the door of Asia and it has taught me to have an open mind. We have food and wine choices without constraint. When I began in HK, my vision as a GM had to change from selling only food and wine. I see how we have to find other sources, like ambiance, service, furnishings and artwork to wow our guests. In HK it’s very important particularly, for many guests prefer to bring their own wines to restaurants.

What’s your ultimate food and wine pairing?

I have a French culinary background, so simple fresh bread, beef Bourgogne and Burgundy is best for me. I recently have been enjoying Domaine de la Vougeraie. If I go white, I will favor something Italian, like a Ribolla from Friuli’s Collio region. Radikon is a personal favorite.

What advice would you offer for someone considering a career similar to yours?

Do it with heart and common sense. You cannot learn passion. Be friendly to everyone, and on Sundays be sure you’re wearing tee shirt, shorts and sandals to relax

Go-To Wine Tuesday

enjoying the unexpected

Every Tuesday, we’ll be highlighting a value-conscious wine from IWM’s recent releases. Uncomplicated, enjoyable, and good for everyday drinking, Today’s pick is Castello Fageto’s 2008 Rosso Piceno.

Last night, after spending a glorious holiday weekend relaxing under abundant sun and cloudless blue skies with friends and family, I felt a sudden change. The Brooklyn sky turned an odd shade of gray-green, streaked with lightning, and marble-sized hail began to pelt against my window. As the storm passed, I climbed out onto my fire escape to stand and watch a river of ice flowing down the streets of Park Slope. Weather phenomenon never ceases to amaze me.

I like to be surprised, to be caught off-guard, and to be reminded of nature’s ability to defy expectation. I like it in weather, and I like it in wine. One case in point is Castello Fageto’s 2008 Rosso Piceno that bursts from the bottle much like hail from the sky—or the sunshine that comes after. The 50/50 Sangiovese-Montepulciano blend is a bright red, firmly structured wine with soft but noticeable tannins and jaunty acidity. Best of all, at $16.70, it’s a bargain wine for everyday drinking that will surprise you, unless of course, you already expect the unexpected.

Le Marche’s Castello Fageto is nestled between the counties of Campofilone and Pedaso along the Adriatic Sea. Respect for the land is an essential part of the estate’s family values, and in the winery business, they are primary objectives. The use of friendly agricultural methods and alternative energy sources (the winery is self sufficient in its energy needs through solar power) guarantee the quality of the product as well as the preservation of the environment. Equal care and attention is paid to the work that follows both during harvest and again in the winery where the Di Ruscio family works together with winemaker Pierluigi Lorenzetti.